Gwaneumsa Temple – 관음사 (Dong-gu, Daegu)
Temple History
Gwaneumsa Temple in Dong-gu, Daegu shouldn’t be confused with the numerous other temples in Korea with the same name, especially the nearby Gwaneumsa Temple in Jung-gu. This Gwaneumsa Temple is situated in the northern foothills of Mt. Hyangsan (160.1 m). Both temples are named for the Bodhisattva of Compassion, Gwanseeum-bosal. According to the “Palgongsan Dodong Naggasan Gwaneumsa Temple Monument Inscription,” Gwaneumsa Temple was first founded in 670 A.D. by the famed monk Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.). It would later be rebuilt by the monk Simji in the early 9th century.
After this, very little is known about the temple’s history outside Jingak-guksa (1178-1234) and his writings from the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). It’s not until 1933, when the temple was rebuilt by the monk Haein, that Gwaneumsa Temple gets mentioned, once more. In fact, the “Gyonam Gazette” mentions that “Gwaneumam Hermitage is located in Dodong, Haean-myeon.” This suggests that the monk Haein restored the dilapidated Gwaneumam Hermitage. It’s after this that the name of the temple changes from a hermitage to that of a temple. From this time forward, it would be known as Gwaneumsa Temple.
In 1970, the Gwaneum-jeon Hall was newly built. And in 1990, the Samseong-gak Hall was relocated to the upper courtyard on the ridgeline above the main hall. Then in 1999, the main hall was built at Gwaneumsa Temple.
Additionally, the temple grounds are surrounded by the “Forest of Oriental Arborvitae in Do-dong,” which is Natural Monument #1.
Temple Layout
First having passed through the stone pillared Haetalmun Gate, you’ll make your way up to the temple grounds alongside the fenced-off forested area of the “Forest of Oriental Arborvitae in Do-dong.” Eventually, you’ll come to the lower temple courtyard at Gwaneumsa Temple.
The main building that takes up the majority of the lower temple courtyard is the Museol-jeon Hall. This is a unique name for a main hall. The only other time I’ve every seen this type of building anywhere else was at Bulguksa Temple; however, it wasn’t the main hall. The Museol-jeon Hall at Bulguksa Temple is positioned behind the Daeung-jeon Hall. The Museol-jeon Hall, which means “non-lecturing” in English, is a large two-story shrine hall at Gwaneumsa Temple. The exterior walls to the Museol-jeon Hall are adorned with murals that include the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals), as well as murals dedicated to Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power) and Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom). Stepping inside the Museol-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by a triad centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). On either side of this central image are statues dedicated to Munsu-bosal and Bohyeon-bosal. To the left and right of the main altar, you’ll find large murals. One of these murals is dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife), while the other is a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the east of the lower courtyard, you’ll find stairways that lead up to elevated upper courtyard. In the upper courtyard, you’ll find a collection of buildings including a two-story entryway that welcomes you to this part of the temple grounds. To the left of the gate, and before entering the upper courtyard, you’ll find a metal staircase leading up to a tiny shrine. Housed inside this brick shrine is a golden image of what’s believed to be Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha), even though it’s also commonly referred to as Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha). Be careful when climbing the metal stairs because they are pretty janky.
Passing under the entry gate, you’ll enter into the upper courtyard. To the left are the monks’ dorms, while straight ahead is the Gwaneum-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with highly stylized paintings of dragons. Stepping inside the compact Gwaneum-jeon Hall, you’ll find a golden stone statue of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). This rather rustic central image is joined on either side by smaller, refined images of Mireuk-bul and Jijang-bosal. Also housed inside the Gwaneum-jeon Hall are modern paintings dedicated to Jijang-bosal and another Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the rear of the Gwaneum-jeon Hall, and completely hidden, is the Samseong-gak Hall. Housed inside the shaman shrine hall are three paintings created by the same artist dedicated to a central image of Chilseong (The Seven Stars) and joined on the left and right wall by Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) and Dokseong (The Lonely Saint).
How To Get There
From the Ayang-gyo subway stop on the Daegu subway system, which is on line #1 and is stop #137, you’ll need to catch the “Palgong 1 – 팔공1” bus. You’ll need to take this bus for about 20 minutes and get off at the “Cheukbaek-namu-supap – 측백나무숲앞” stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to cross the stream to the east of you. Continue to head east for about 200 metres, or 5 minutes, to get to Gwaneumsa Temple.
Also, you can simply take a taxi from the Ayang-gyo subway stop. The taxi ride will take you about 10 minutes, over 6 km, and it’ll cost you 7,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 6/10
Gwaneumsa Temple is surrounded by the beautiful “Forest of Oriental Arborvitae in Do-dong,” which also just so happens to be Natural Monument #1. In addition to the beautiful natural surrounding, you can also enjoy both the interior and exterior of the uniquely named Museol-jeon Hall. But perhaps the greatest highlight to the temple is the upper courtyard that houses the Gwaneum-jeon Hall with the rustic, golden, stone image of Gwanseeum-bosal and the hidden Samseong-gak Hall behind the Gwaneum-jeon Hall.
