Gwaneumsa Temple – 관음사 (Jung-gu, Ulsan)
Temple History
Gwaneumsa Temple in Jung-gu, Ulsan, which shouldn’t be confused with the dozens of other temples with the exact same name in Korea, is located in central Ulsan in Taehwa Neighborhood Park. Gwaneumsa Temple is believed to have been established by the female devotee Nam-bosal during the late Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). Nam-bosal, after having a prophetic dream, decided to build the temple and name it Monghwa Temple.
In 1927, the monk Seokgak also had a dream, one where he encountered Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). After having this dream, the monk decided to reconstruct the main hall of the temple and call the temple Gwaneumsa Temple. Later, and around the time of Korea’s liberation in 1945, Gwaneumsa Temple was renamed Gwangbongam Hermitage. In 1953, the temple’s name reverted back to Gwaneumsa Temple, which it has retained ever since.
An interesting aspect to Gwaneumsa Temple is that it’s believed to have been built on the site of the former Taehwasa Temple. Taehwasa Temple was first founded during the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.) by the monk Jajang-yulsa (590-658 A.D.). It’s believed that Jajang-yulsa built a temple on this site upon returning from Tang Dynasty China (618–690, 705–907 A.D.). It’s believed that Taehwasa Temple was first founded in 643 A.D. Jajang-yulsa built Taehwasa Temple attempting to create stability in Silla and for the well-being of the Silla people, as well. It was noted as one of the ten great temples of the Silla Dynasty.
As for the name of the temple, the reason that Jajang-yulsa chose it is because while studying in Tang Dynasty China, Jajang-yulsa had an encounter with a dragon-like deity near Taehwa Lake – 太和池. During this encounter, Jajang-yulsa was instructed to build a nine-story pagoda at Hwangnyongsa Temple in Gyeongju for the protection of the nation. The dragon-like deity also promised Jajang-yulsa that if he built a temple south of Gyeongju, the monk would be blessed.
According to the “Samguk Yusa,” or “Memorabilia of the Three Kingdoms” in English, “Jajang, who had been supervising the great project [the construction of the nine-story pagoda at Hwangnyongsa Temple], buried beneath the front post of the pagoda one hundred Buddha relics [sari – crystallized remains] which he had received from the divine being [dragon-like deity] in China. Some other relics were buried at Tongdosa Temple and Taehwasa Tepmle in Ulju [Ulsan], also built by Jajang-beopsa.”
Outside of the “Samguk Yusa,” the existence of Taehwasa Temple can be confirmed through other records like poetry from Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). It’s believed that Taehwasa Temple was destroyed during the raids conducted by Japanese pirates at the end of the Goryeo Dynasty. The only thing that survived from the temple is the “Stupa with Twelve Zodiac Animal Deities in Relief from Taehwasa Temple Site,” which is a Korean Treasure from Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.).
Temple Layout
You first approach Gwaneumsa Temple up a long, forested road. Eventually, you’ll arrive just outside the temple grounds. The first building to welcome you, which also shelters the main temple courtyard, is the monks’ dorms. Navigating to the left of this building, and turning a sharp right, you’ll enter into the main temple courtyard at Gwaneumsa Temple.
Straight ahead of you is the Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in an elaborate array of dancheong with an unusual choice of brown as the dominant colour. The exterior walls are also adorned in a variety of paintings that include the legend of the moktak, the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld), Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.) and Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.), and large paintings dedicated to Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) and Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power). And on either side of the shrine hall’s signboard, you’ll find two ferocious dragons. These are meant to symbolize the Banya Yongseon-do (Dragon Ship of Wisdom).
Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar triad underneath a long, golden datjib (canopy). The main altar triad is centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) and joined on either side by Munsu-bosal and Bohyeon-bosal. To the left of the main altar is a side altar with a statue and painting dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). And to the right of the main altar is a shrine dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal. The golden statue of the Bodhisattva of Compassion is backed by a stunning mural of Gwanseeum-bosal, as well. And hanging on the far right wall is the temple’s Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall is the administrative office. It’s to the west of this building, and up a small side-trail, that you’ll find the Samseong-gak Hall. This shaman shrine hall is located underneath towering red pines. One of the exterior walls is adorned with a large, orange tiger painting. Stepping inside the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find three paintings dedicated to the three most popular shaman deities in Korean Buddhism. In the centre of the three is a mural dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). This central painting is joined on either side by murals dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) and Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). All three paintings are rather traditional in style and created by the same artist.
How To Get There
From the Ulsan Intercity Bus Terminal, there are a few ways to get to Gwaneumsa Temple in Jung-gu. By public transportation, you’ll need to take two buses. First, you’ll need to cross the road and head north to catch the bus that heads to Gwaneumsa Temple. The walk to the bus stop is around 250 metres. The first bus that you’ll need to take is either Bus #417 or Bus #734. You’ll need to take this bus for 5 stops and get off at the “Hakseong Gongwon hacha – 핫성공원하차” bus stop. From this bus stop, you’ll then need to board Bus #213 or Bus #422. You’ll need to take this bus for 7 stops and get off at the “Taehwa-dong hacha – 태화동하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to head west for about 100 metres and then northeast up “Shingi 16-gil – 신기 16길” road. You’ll need to walk up this road for about 500 metres to finally get to Gwaneumsa Temple.
And if public transportation isn’t your thing, you can simply take a taxi from the Ulsan Intercity Bus Terminal. It’ll take you about 15 minutes, or 7.3 km, and it’ll cost you around 8,500 won (one way). Just make sure you’re going to the Gwaneumsa Temple in Jung-gu because there are several other temples with the same name in Ulsan.
Overall Rating: 5/10
There’s not a lot to see at Gwaneumsa Temple in Jung-gu, Ulsan; however, with that being said, there are still a few highlights like the large, orange tiger that adorns the exterior of the Samseong-gak Hall. In addition to this painting, you can also enjoy the exterior paintings that adorn the Daeung-jeon Hall, as well. Of note, I think the paintings dedicated to Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) and Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power) are the largest of their kind that I’ve encountered in Korea. Additionally, the painting dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) inside the main hall is stunning. And if you’re up for it, a hike around the park where Gwaneumsa Temple is located can be quite nice, as well.
