Gwisinsa Temple – 귀신사 (Gimje, Jeollabuk-do)
Temple History
Gwisinsa Temple is located in eastern Gimje, Jeollabuk-do in the eastern foothills of Mt. Guseongsan (489.6 m). In fact, it’s not all that far from Geumsansa Temple. Gwisinsa Temple was first founded in 676 A.D. by the famed monk Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.). Originally, the temple was called Guksinsa Temple, and there were eight hermitages that surrounded the main temple. Later, the temple would be rebuilt by the monk Doyun during Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.). The scholar Choe Chiwon (857-10th century) would compile the “Biography of the Monk Fazang” at Gwisinsa Temple.
The temple was later restored by the monk Wonmyeong-guksa (1090-1141) during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). During the late Goryeo Dynasty, around three hundred Japanese soldiers occupied the temple after capturing the neighbouring fortress. Eventually, these Japanese soldiers would be driven out of the area by the commander Yu Sil. At that time, the temple was a large complex filled with numerous buildings.
Later, the temple would act as a training ground for the Righteous Army in 1592. Eventually, Gwisinsa Temple would be partially destroyed during the Imjin War (1592-98). The Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall at the temple would be built during the 17th century. Housed inside the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall would be the large “Clay Seated Vairocana Buddha Triad of Gwisinsa Temple” that were made between 1624-1633. Gwisinsa Temple would be rebuilt in 1873 by the monk Chunbong. It was at this time that the temple was renamed Gwisinsa Temple.
In total, Gwisinsa Temple is home to two Korean Treasures. They are the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall, which is Korean Treasure #826. And the other Korean Treasure is the “Clay Seated Vairocana Buddha Triad of Gwisinsa Temple,” which is Korean Treasure #1516.
Temple Layout
As you make your way up the stone stairs to the main temple courtyard at Gwisinsa Temple, you’ll immediately be greeted by the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall. The Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall is presumed to have been built around the start of the 17th century. It’s exterior walls are void of any dancheong colours. Stepping inside the main hall, you’ll find a large triad of statues on the main altar. This triad is known as the “Clay Seated Vairocana Buddha Triad of Gwisinsa Temple.” The central image in the triad is that of Birojana-bul (The Buddha of Cosmic Energy). This central image is flanked on either side by images of Yaksayeorae-bul (The Buddha of Medicine, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise) and Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). This triad is one of the large, clay Buddha triads that were produced during the 17th century after the Imjin War (1592-98). While the triad displays an influence from Ming China (1368–1644), it also shows that the Korean Buddhist sculptors were creating a new style of their own, as well. While large in size, the triad statues have gentle facial features. They also have long torsos, which results in an overall feeling of elegance. As for the age of the triad, there was an inscription found inside the Nahan-jeon Hall at Gwisinsa Temple dating back to 1633. The inscription states that the “Clay Seated Vairocana Buddha Triad of Gwisinsa Temple” was made prior to this year. Gwisinsa Temple underwent a large overall repair in 1624, according to the “Records of Gwisinsa Temple in Moaksan Mountain, Jeonju – Jeonju Moaksan Gwisinsa sajeok sain.” This text was written by the monk Jasu (1664-1737). From this, we can glean that the triad was made sometime between 1624 and 1633. This triad is similar in style to those at Songgwangsa Temple in Wanju, Jeollabuk-do and that at Beopjusa Temple in Boeun, Chungcheongbuk-do. Also taking up residence inside the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall at Gwisinsa Temple is a painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) and a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the left and right of the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall, you’ll find the monks’ dorms and administrative office. To the right rear of the main hall, on the other hand, you’ll find the Myeongbu-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in traditional dancheong colours. Stepping inside the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, you’ll find a set of twenty-nine statues that date back to the 17th century. The main altar image is a golden Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). Flanking this central image are images of Daoming and the Demon King Wudu. On either side of this main altar are the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld). Additionally, there are ten youthful scribes, two judges, two officials, and two guardians. It’s a beautiful, historical collection that’s rarely found intact in Korea. The “Clay Seated Jijang-bosal and Ten Kings of the Underworld in the Myeongbu-jeon Hall of Gwisinsa Temple” is a Jeollabuk-do Cultural Heritage.
Across a field to the rear of the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Yeongsan-jeon Hall. Again, the exterior walls are adorned in traditional dancheong colours. Stepping inside the Yeongsan-jeon Hall, you’ll find a central image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) on the main altar. This central image is flanked on either side by Yeondeung-bul (The Past Buddha) and Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha). In addition to this triad, you’ll find the sixteen Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha) on either side of the main altar triad. There are also two judges and two fierce guardians at either entry of the shrine hall. In total, there are twenty-five statues that date back to 1633. The collection of statues inside the Yeongsan-jeon Hall are a fully intact set. This is rare for a historical collection of statues. The “Clay Seokgamoni-bul Triad and Nahan in the Yeongsan-jeon Hall of Gwisinsa Temple” is a Jeollabuk-do Cultural Heritage.
Between the Yeongsan-jeon Hall and the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, you’ll find a flight of stone stairs that lead up to an area with a collection of stone artifacts. The first, and most noticeable, is the “Stone Pagoda of Gwisinsa Temple.” This 4.5 metre tall pagoda was first erected during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). The three-story pagoda’s finial has been severely damaged. Rather interestingly, and judging by its style, the pagoda more similarly resembles a Baekje Dynasty (18 B.C. – 660 A.D.) pagoda than that of a Goryeo Dynasty pagoda.
Nearby the “Stone Pagoda of Gwisinsa Temple,” you’ll find the “Seoksu of Gwisinsa Temple.” This lion statue was made during the Goryeo Dynasty. The lion statue, sitting on a round foundation stone, has its head held up high and looking straight ahead. On its back is placed a stone pillar. According to a story surrounding the “Seoksu of Gwisinsa Temple,” it was built to subdue the bad spirits of the area. Both the “Stone Pagoda of Gwisinsa Temple” and the “Seoksu of Gwisinsa Templme” are Jeollabuk-do Cultural Heritage.
How To Get There
From the Gimje Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus #5 to get to Gwisinsa Temple. You’ll need to take this bus for 50 stops, which will take about 80 minutes, and get off at the “Cheongdo-ri – 청도리하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to walk up the “Cheongdo 5-gil – 청도 5길” road first to the west and then to the north for about 300 metres, or 5 minutes.
Overall Rating: 7.5/10
While smaller in size, and overshadowed by the nearby Geumsansa Temple, Gwisinsa Temple definitely has its share of beautiful and unique sites to see. This starts with the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall and the “Clay Seated Vairocana Buddha Triad of Gwisinsa Temple.” Both are impressive in their own right, especially the large, clay statues. In addition to these Korean Treasures, there are a handful of provincial treasures. It’s surprising that not one of the provincial treasures are Korean Treasures, especially the historic set of statues found inside the Yeongsan-jeon Hall and the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, as well as the “Seoksu of Gwisinsa Temple.” Perhaps one day soon…
