Haenamsa Temple – 해남사 (Jung-gu, Ulsan)
Temple History
Haenamsa Temple is located in central Ulsan in Jung-gu. The temple was first a missionary temple for Tongdosa Temple. According to the “Directory of Propagation Districts in the 19th issue of the “Joseon Buddhist Monthly Report” (朝鮮佛敎月報), which was published in 1913, Haenamsa Temple was first established in October 1911 under the name of “Ulsan Buddhist Missionary Centre.” Later, in 1936, the missionary centre was renamed as Haenamsa Temple. It was established by the monk Guha, who was the abbot of Tongdosa Temple. And the reason that the temple was first constructed is that Korean people, and Ulsan people in particular, were suffering during Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45), so the temple was founded to help save people through Buddhist teachings.
In 1970, the Beomjong-gak Pavilion was renovated. And in 1972, the Daeungbo-jeon Hall was built. In 1976, the bronze bell was cast. And on April 21, 1999, Haenamsa Temple was designated as the 7th Traditional Temple of Ulsan. Also, Haenamsa Temple is one of the 982 traditional temples in Korea.
Temple Layout
You first enter the temple grounds at Haenamsa Temple from some narrow, congested side streets. Entering the grassy courtyard, you’ll notice the Beomjong-gak Hall to your left. Housed inside this elevated structure is a large bronze bell. As for the pavilion itself, it’s adorned in beautiful dancheong colours.
To the far left of the Beomjong-gak Hall, you’ll find the administrative office and modern tea shop. Straight ahead on the other hand, is the temple’s Daeungbo-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in various murals including an all-white image of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) saving sailors from an impending shipwreck. The front of the main hall is adorned in stunning floral latticework, as well as intimidating Gwimyeon (Monster Masks) at the base of the latticework. And if you look up at the signboard for the Daeungbo-jeon Hall, you’ll find two dragons that are meant to represent the Dragon Ship of Wisdom that ferries people across Samsara.
Stepping inside the Daeungbo-jeon Hall, you’ll find a triad of statues on the main altar underneath a long, golden datjib (canopy). The central statue is that of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), who is joined on either side by statues of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) and Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise). To the left of this main altar triad is a shrine dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). This shrine has a large, green haired statue of Jijang-bosal, which is atypically backed by smaller statues of himself. To the right of the main altar, you’ll find a shrine dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal. This statue of the Bodhisattva of Compassion is wearing a regal crown upon its head. And again, and rather atypically, this larger statue is backed by smaller statues of herself. Also taking up residence inside the Daeungbo-jeon Hall is a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the immediately left of the Daeungbo-jeon Hall, but before the administrative office, you’ll find the uniquely designed Sanshin-gak Hall. From the front, you can peer into the shaman shrine hall through a window with green shutters on either side. You’ll enter the low-ceiling Sanshin-gak Hall from the right. Straight ahead, and as you enter, you’ll find a pink Sanshin (Mountain Spirit) mat. To the right, and on the main altar, you’ll find a stunning mural dedicated to Sanshin. In this painting, Sanshin is a holding a green leaf fan in his left hand and a wooden staff in his right. All the while, Sanshin is riding a spotted tiger. Sanshin and his tiger are located under a twisted red pine, and a dongja (attendant) is offering the Mountain Spirit a pair of peaches from a golden tray.
How To Get There
There are a few complicated ways to get to Haenamsa Temple using public transportation; but either way, you’d need to take a couple of buses, or you’d need to take just one and walk a fair distance. So the easiest way to get to Haenamsa Temple from the Ulsan Intercity Bus Terminal is to take a taxi. The taxi ride should take about 10 minutes, or 4.8 km, and it’ll cost you around 6,500 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 5/10
There are a couple of highlights to this small temple in central Ulsan. One of these highlights is the exterior of the Daeungbo-jeon Hall with all of its beautiful artwork and artistry including the floral latticework and the dragon heads. In addition to the exterior of the main hall, you can also enjoy the interior of the Sanshin-gak Hall. From the pink Sanshin mat to the main altar painting of the Mountain Spirit, the shaman shrine hall is a pleasant surprise. And at the end of it, and if you’re feeling thirsty, you can enjoy a tea in the temple’s tea house.
