Heungguksa Temple – 흥국사 (Goyang, Gyeonggi-do)
Temple History
Heungguksa Temple is located in Goyang, Gyeonggi-do just outside the city limits of Seoul and the park boundaries of Bukhansan National Park. The temple is believed to have first been established in 661 A.D. by the famed monk Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.). After practicing at neighbouring Wonhyoam Hermitage, Wonhyo-daesa decided to also build Heungseongam Hermitage, which is located some three kilometres away. Wonhyo-daesa noticed auspicious energy rising from the western foothills of Mt. Hansan for three consecutive days. Upon further investigation, Wonhyo-daesa found that a seated image of Yaksayeorae-bul (The Buddha of Medicine) had emerged from the ground at the current site of the Yaksa-jeon Hall at Heungguksa Temple. When this seated image emerged, it was radiating light. This event would lead to the construction of the temple. Wonhyo-daesa would call this temple Heungseongam Hermitage because of the auspicious energy emitting from the hermitage site. It was thought that it could produce several enlightened beings.
Very little is known about the temple’s history until 1686, when the temple was rebuilt. The temple gained in popularity in 1770 during the reign of King Yeongjo of Joseon (r. 1720-76), when King Yeongjo of Joseon visited the temple on his way back from his mother’s, Royal Noble Consort Sukbin Choe (1670-1718), tomb at Soryeongwon Mausoleum in Paju, Gyeonggi-do. King Yeongjo personally inscribed the signboard for the temple’s Yaksa-jeon Hall. The temple would be designated as the temple to pray for the mother of King Yeongjo, Royal Noble Consort Sukbin Choe. After spending a night at the temple, King Yeongjo of Joseon renamed the temple Heungguksa Temple. The reason for this name change is that it was believed that the Yaksa-jeon Hall, and the image of Yaksayeorae-bul housed inside this shrine hall, would bring prosperity to the nation. After the royal visit, the Yaksa-jeon Hall was expanded, the Mita-jeon Hall was newly constructed, and royal concubines were allowed to stay at Heungguksa Temple to study Seon Buddhism.
In 1785, Heungguksa Temple was renovated, once more. And in 1867, the Yaksa-jeon Hall was rebuilt. Then in 1876, the Chilseong-gak Hall was built. This was followed in 1902 with the construction of the Nahan-jeon Hall and the Sanshin-gak Hall. Lastly, and in 1913, new buildings were built on the temple grounds which further enhanced the size of the temple.
Heungguksa Temple is home to one National Registered Cultural Heritage, which is the “Daebang Hall of Heungguksa Temple.” The temple is also home to four Gyeonggi-do Tangible Cultural Heritage. They are the “Goyang Heungguksa Gwaebul,” the “Wooden Seated Amitabha Buddha of Heungguksa Temple in Goyang,” the “Geungnak Gupumdo Painting of Heungguksa Temple in Goyang,” and the “The Vulture Peak Assembly Painting of Heungguksa Temple in Goyang.” Heungguksa Temple also conducts a popular Templestay program.
Temple Layout
From the temple parking lot, you’ll first encounter a slender Iljumun Gate. Up a long set of stairs, you’ll next come to the rather atypical Cheonwangmun Gate. Instead of being an enclosed entry gate, two images of the Four Heavenly Kings are painted on the doors of the gate. You’ll also pass through a stone circle with images of lotus flower reliefs around its circumference.
Having passed through this second entry gate, you’ll be greeted by the historic Daebang Hall. This shrine hall, which is also known as a Mita-jeon Hall, was enlarged in 1904. It was then restored in either 1912 or 1915. This style of shrine hall was built especially for royal prayer at larger temples. The exterior walls are all-natural. As for the interior, the Daebang Hall consists of a large room for worship, kitchens, pavilions, and a narrow wooden porch. Two rooms to the left are the kitchens, while the space taking up three rooms in the centre is used as the main worship area. And the two rooms to the right are used by the monks to study. By the 19th century, most Daebang Halls had been destroyed in Korea. So the Daebang Hall at Heungguksa Temple is important. This is also where you’ll find the “Wooden Seated Amitabha Buddha of Heungguksa Temple in Goyang.”
Going around the Daebang Hall to the left, you’ll enter the main temple courtyard at Heungguksa Temple. Straight ahead of you is the Yaksa-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with paintings of Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities). And up near the signboard of the Yaksa-jeon Hall, you’ll find two folkish images of dragons. Stepping inside the Yaksa-jeon Hall, you’ll find a glittery image of Yaksayeorae-bul on the main altar. The statue’s golden robe shimmers. To the right of the main altar is a shrine dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). This is an eleven-head and thousand armed image of the Bodhisattva of Compassion. And to the right of this shrine, and hanging on the far right wall, is a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
Out in front of the Yaksa-jeon Hall, in the grassy courtyard, you’ll find a modern five-story pagoda. To the left of the main hall, on the other hand, is the Nahan-jeon Hall. Up near the eaves of the structure, you’ll find the manja symbol on both the north and south side of the structure. As for the interior of the Nahan-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by the solitary image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). On either side of this main altar image are sixteen images of the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha), who are then backed by paintings of the Nahan (with four in each painting).
To the right of the Yaksa-jeon Hall is the Jijang-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with such paintings as a Banya Yongseon-do, Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife), people being led to the Underworld, and people being led to Jeongto (The Western Paradise). Looking inside the Jijang-jeon Hall, you’ll find a golden image of Jijang-bosal on the main altar. This image is then backed by a red painting of himself, which is then surrounded by a golden-shaped orb-like mandorla around his entire body. To the left of the main altar is a beautiful Gamno-do (Sweet Dew Mural). And placed between the Gamno-do and main altar is an older painting dedicated to one of the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld).
To the rear of the temple grounds, you’ll find the Samseong-gak Hall. Housed inside this shaman shrine hall are three beautiful images of shaman deities. In the centre is a golden relief dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). To the right is a beautiful, modern painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). And to the left, and by the same artist that created the Sanshin painting, you’ll find an equally impressive mural dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint).
How To Get There
From the Gupabal Subway Station stop #320, which is located on line #3 of the Seoul subway system, you’ll need to go out either exit #1 or exit #2 and take Bus #704. You’ll need to take this bus for ten stops, or twelve minutes, and get off at the “Heungguksa – 흥국사 하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to head north towards Heungguksa Temple. The walk should take you about 14 minutes over 800 metres.
And if public transportation isn’t your thing, you can simply take a taxi from the Gupabal Subway Station stop #320. The taxi ride should take ten minutes (depending on traffic), over four kilometres, and it should cost around 7,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 7/10
Arguably, the star attraction to Heungguksa Temple is the Daebang Hall. It’s just so unique in design, and it also houses a provincial treasure. In addition, it doesn’t hurt that the temple gets to enjoy the view of Bukhansan National Park off in the distance. Other things to enjoy at the temple are the exterior wall paintings of the Jijang-jeon Hall, the main altar image of Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha) inside the Yaksa-jeon Hall, as well as the beautiful, modern paintings dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) and Dokseong (The Lonely Saint) inside the Samseong-gak Hall.
