Hoguksa Temple – 호국사 (Jinju, Gyeongsangnam-do)
Temple History
Hoguksa Temple is located inside the walls of Jinju Fortress, which is a Historic Site, near the Jinju National Museum in Jinju, Gyeongsangnam-do. The name of the temple means “Protection of Nation Temple” in English. The city of Jinju used to be a military base that helped oppose the Japanese military forces in the late Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). It helped prevent the enemy from entering into Jeolla-do Province. During the Imjin War (1592-98), in 1592, about 3,800 soldiers under the command of General Kim Si-min (1554-1592) defeated about 30,000 Japanese soldiers at Jinju Fortress. Included in Gen. Kim’s army were monks who had trained at the temple. In fact, the temple would serve as the headquarters of the Buddhist army.
However, during the Second Battle of Jinju in 1593, the Joseon forces would fall to the Japanese military. Not only would all of the soldiers, including the warrior monks, be killed at this second battle, but the temple was completely destroyed by fire, as well.
Backtracking a bit, Hoguksa Temple was first founded during the Goryeo Dynasty, and it was originally known as Naeseongsa Temple (Inner Castle Temple). During the late Goryeo Dynasty, Jinju Fortress was reinforced to withstand attacks from foreign armies; and it was at this time that the temple was built to help cultivate and enhance military morale. After the Imjin War, the temple was rebuilt as Hoguksa Temple during the reign of King Sukjong of Joseon (r. 1674-1720). The temple was rebuilt to honour the spirits of the Joseon soldiers who died at Jinju Fortress during the Second Battle of Jinju in 1593. Eventually, and with the ending of hostilities, the Jinju Fortress would act as several different administrative offices and command centres during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910).
Recently, and during archaeological work conducted on Jinju Fortress, a foundation stone for Hoguksa Temple’s Iljumun Gate was discovered two metres underground. With this in mind, the current Iljumun Gate used this foundation stone as its partial base. All the buildings in the temple were newly constructed in recent years. Additionally, and according to records, the master monk Cheongdam (1902-1971) reached enlightenment at Hoguksa Temple.
Temple Layout
You first approach Hoguksa Temple through the western entrance of Jinju Fortress. The first thing to greet you at the temple is the Cheonwangmun Gate. The front of the entry gate is adorned with paintings dedicated to Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power) and Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom). Stepping inside the Cheonwangmun Gate, you’ll be greeted by statues of the Four Heavenly Kings. They are all larger in size and fierce in expression.
Having made your way through the Cheonwangmun Gate, you’ll notice the Daeung-jeon Hall straight ahead of you and up a flight of stone stairs. Before making your way up to the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll notice the monks’ dorms and administrative office to your right. And to the left, you’ll notice the Myeongbu-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to the Cheonwangmun Gate are adorned in simple dancheong colours. Stepping inside the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, you’ll be greeted by a large green haired statue dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). This serenely smiling Bodhisattva is joined on either side by seated statues of the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld).
Finally making your way up to the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll notice a slender five-story pagoda to the left of the stone stairs that lead up to the main hall. The exterior walls to the Daeung-jeon Hall are adorned in various Buddhist related murals like paintings dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion), and the legend of the moktak. Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll see a main altar occupied by a triad centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). And on either side of this central image are statues of Munsu-bosal and Bohyeon-bosal. To the right of the main altar is a statue dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal, which is backed by a multi-armed and headed image of the Bodhisattva of Compassion. To the left of the main altar, on the other hand, you’ll find a statue and painting dedicated to Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). And hanging on the far left wall is a black accented Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, and backed by a grove of bamboo trees, you’ll find the Samseong-gak Hall. Housed inside this shaman shrine hall are four paintings (instead of the more traditional three). All four paintings are modern in composition, and they also appear to have been created by the same artist. Rather uniquely, the central image is that of Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). Typically, this central position is occupied by Chilseong (The Seven Stars). However, Chilseong is to the right of the central image, while the Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) painting hangs to the left. And hanging on the far right wall, and the additional fourth painting in the set of shaman deities, is a seated image of Yongwang (The Dragon King).
To the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a monument for the Imjin War dead. To the right of this is a statue, rather sensibly, dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). And to the right of this stone statue is the temple’s Beomjong-gak Pavilion. Housed inside this pavilion is the temple’s bronze bell.
How To Get There
From the Jinju Intercity Bus Terminal, you can simply head west along the river with the Jinju Fortress up the embankment. Walk along the sidewalk for two kilometres, until you notice the sign to the south indicating Hoguksa Temple. You’ll need to walk up a wooden flight of stairs and pass through the west gate to gain admittance to the temple grounds.
You can walk, or you can take a taxi. The taxi ride is about 5 minutes, or 2 km, and it’ll cost you 4,000 won (one way). Again, you’ll need to walk up a wooden flight of stairs and pass through the west gate to gain admittance to the temple grounds.
Overall Rating: 6/10
One of the highlights to Hoguksa Temple is its location inside Jinju Fortress. In general, there aren’t all that many temples found inside fortresses. Adding to this, Jinju Fortress is positioned in the centre of the city with a commanding view of the neighbouring river. In addition to its location, the statues of the Four Heavenly Kings are frighteningly beautiful. The interior of the Daeung-jeon Hall is something to enjoy, as well. Additionally, the large, serene statue of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) is another highlight at Hoguksa Temple. And if you have the time, you should also check out Jinju National Museum, which is also located inside the walls of Jinju Fortress.
