Hongryongsa Temple – 홍룡사 (Yangsan, Gyeongsangnam-do)
Temple History
Hongryongsa Temple is located on the western slopes of Mt. Cheonseongsan (920.1 m) in Yangsan, Gyeongsangnam. The name of the mountain means “Thousand Saints/Sages Mountain” in English, while the name of the temple means “Rainbow Dragon Temple.” The name of the temple comes from a myth and the waterfall that flows at the temple. The spray from the waterfall often forms a rainbow, and there once lived a golden dragon that lived in the pooling water beneath this waterfall. Eventually, this dragon would ride a rainbow up into the sky and disappear.
This type of dragon is known as a Heavenly Dragon, or “Cheonryong” in Korean. In Buddhism and East Asian mythology, the Heavenly Dragon refers to divine/celestial dragons that are often considered protectors of the Dharma. In English, they are part of the Eight Legions. In Korean, they are known as the “Palbu-sinjang” or the “Cheonryong-palbu.” These Heavenly Dragons appear in Buddhist sutras as beings who revere and defend the Buddha’s teachings. They’re frequently associated with rain, clouds, and spiritual power.
There is some conjecture about when Hongryongsa Temple was first founded. Some sources say that it was first built during the reign of King Munmu of Silla (r. 661-681 A.D.) in 673 A.D., while another source states that the temple was first founded in 646 A.D. However, all sources agree that the temple was first founded by Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.). Hongryongsa Temple is one of 89 temples and hermitages constructed by Wonhyo-daesa on Mt. Cheonseongsan during his lifetime.
Originally, the temple was known as Naksusa Temple, which means “Falling Water Temple” in English. Wonhyo-daesa used to teach the Avataṃsaka Sūtra, or “Hwaeom-gyeong” in Korean, to one thousand Tang monks, for which the mountain gets its name. And he used to teach to these Tang monks, as they enjoyed the refreshing spray from the Hongryong-pokpo Waterfall.
After the creation of the temple, there is very little known about Hongryongsa Temple until the early 20th century. With that being said, during the reign of King Seonjo of Joseon (r. 1567-1608), Hongryongsa Temple was regarded as the preeminent Seon temple in the Yeongnam region. It was a major temple that had a Cheonbul-jeon Hall, a Gwaneum-jeon Hall, and a Nahan-jeon Hall. However, it was completely destroyed during the Imjin War (1592-98). In the 20th century, the temple site was abandoned until the 1910s, when the monk Beophwa from neighbouring Tongdosa Temple rebuilt the temple. From the late 1970s, Hongryongsa Temple has continued to be rebuilt and grow.
Temple Layout
When you first approach the temple grounds, you’ll first notice the newly built four pillar Iljumun Gate. This gate was built within the last ten years as is the newly built pavilion that overlooks the cascading water that flows down from the famous Hongryong-pokpo Waterfall.
Further up the path, and you’ll finally come to the main temple grounds and the Daeung-jeon Hall. Adorning the exterior walls to the Daeung-jeon Hall are floral murals, two Dragon Ship of Wisdom murals, matching dragons above the shrine hall entryway, and two all-white murals dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). Inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a triad centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This statue is joined on either side by Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) and Gwanseeum-bosal. And hanging on either side of the main altar inside the Daeung-jeon Hall is a mural dedicated to Jijang-bosal and another dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars).
To the left, and slightly to the rear of the Daeung-jeon Hall, is the Gwaneum-jeon Hall. There are a couple floral murals adorning the exterior walls to this temple shrine hall. As for the interior, there is a large multi-armed and headed statue dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). The only other item inside the Gwaneum-jeon Hall is an enormous Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the far left of the Daeung-jeon Hall and the Gwaneum-jeon Hall are the monks dorms, the temple’s administrative office, as well as the Beomjong-gak Pavilion. However, it’s to the right of these structures that’s the main attraction to the temple.
Passing through a uniquely designed stone gate, you’ll start to make your way up a long set of stairs towards Hongryong-pokpo Waterfall. Along the way, you’ll see a snuggly fit Sanshin-gak Hall. This shaman shrine hall is nestled into the side of a rock outcropping. Housed inside the Sanshin-gak Hall are two black murals dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) and Dokseong (The Lonely Saint).
Finally, having made it to the top of the stairs, you’ll come face-to-face with the beautiful Hongryong-pokpo Waterfall. To the right of the rainbow falls, and the pooling water created by these falls, is a stone statue dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha). And to the left of the spraying falls is the Okdang Hall. Housed inside this uniquely named shrine hall are two incarnations of the Bodhisattva of Compassion. The statue to the left is dressed all in white, while the statue to the right is dressed in gold. The falls tend to dry up during the winter months, so it’s best to visit Hongryongsa Temple during the spring or summer months when Hongryong-pokpo Waterfall is at its peak.
How To Get There
Hongryongsa Temple, because of transportation difficulties, is one of the more difficult temples to get to. If you have a car, it makes finding Hongryongsa Temple that much easier. However, if you don’t have a car, you’ll need to get off of Highway 35 at Daeseong Village in Yangsan, Gyeongsangnam-do. It’s about a 3.5 k.m. hike, or one hour, to get to Hongryongsa Temple up this road and following the signs that continue to point you in the right direction.
Overall Rating: 7.5/10
Hongryongsa Temple is one of the most beautifully situated temples you’ll find in all of Korea. The beautiful Hongryong-pokpo Waterfall, for which the temple gets its name, flows down and through the rest of the temple grounds. And when you add all the beauty that’s housed inside the temple shrine halls like the multi-armed and headed Gwanseeum-bosal and the two incarnations of the Bodhisattva of Compassion inside the Okdang Hall, you’ll have more than enough reason to try and find the rather difficult to locate Hongryongsa Temple.
