Chungcheongnam-do

Hyangcheonsa Temple – 향천사 (Yesan, Chungcheongnam-do)

Inside the Cheonbul-jeon Hall at Hyangcheonsa Temple in Yesan, Chungcheongnam-do.

Temple History

Hyangcheonsa Temple is located in northern Yesan, Chungcheongnam-do in a valley below Mt. Geumosan. Hyangcheonsa Temple was first built by the Buddhist monk Uigak in 656 A.D. Uigak traveled to Japan in 653 A.D. and stayed at Baekjesa Temple for a while. Then he moved to Tang China (618–690, 705–907 A.D.). While there, he carved some 3,053 statues of the Buddha and statues of the sixteen Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha) out of jade. He also made a Buddha triad out of cedar over a three-year period.

In 655 A.D., and after transporting these statues to a seaside village in Yesan from a ship made of stone, Uigak had a Buddhist ceremony performed both day and night, which would result in the bell being tolled from his ship. Since then, the village has been known as “Jonggyeong-ri Seokjupo,” which means “A Buddhist Bell and Stone Pillar” in English.

After this ceremony, a couple of golden crows flew to a mountain and disappeared without a trace inside a fragrant spring. After this happened, the mountain came to be known as Mt. Geumosan, which means “Golden Crow Mountain” in English. And it was here that Uigak built a temple. This temple would be named Hyangcheonsa Temple, which means “Fragrant Spring Temple” in English.

A painting of the golden crows from the temple legend that adorns the Gwaneum-jeon Hall at Hyangcheonsa Temple.

By the 12th century, and during an uprising that swept throughout Goryeo (918-1392) territory, the temple was damaged by forces led by Son Cheong. The temple also suffered damage during the Imjin War (1592-98). However, during the late 17th century, Hyangcheonsa Temple underwent significant restoration.

Rather interestingly, a story related to the temple’s Cheonbul-jeon Hall was described in an article by the Dong-A Ilbo newspaper that was dated September 19th, 1926. In this article, it states, “…right near this hall [the Cheonbul-jeon Hall], there is the Hyangcheon Stream, which, if one drinks from it once, it refreshes the mind; if one drinks from it twice, it seems as though one forgets all worldly ties; and if one drinks from it a third time, all ailments disappear, and one seems to have established ties with the celestial realm.” Unfortunately, the Hyangcheon Stream no longer exists where the newspaper describes.

Hyangcheonsa Temple is home to one National Registered Cultural Heritage, which is the “Hanging Painting and Buddhist Paintings of Hyangcheonsa Temple, Yesan (Five Buddhas, Four Bodhisattvas, Eight Vajras).” Additionally, Hyangcheonsa Temple is home to four Chungcheongnam-do Cultural Heritage Material. They are the Cheonbul-jeon Hall, the nine-story pagoda, the “Hyangcheonsa Temple Amitabha Buddha Painting,” and the “The Hyangcheonsa Temple Wooden triad of Amitabha Buddha.”

Temple Layout

From the temple parking lot, and up a set of stone stairs, you’ll pass through the two-story Boje-ru Pavilion. This newly built pavilion acts as an entry on the first floor to the rest of the temple grounds, while the second story of the structure appears to be for resting and dharma talks.

Having passed through the the Boje-ru Pavilion, you’ll now be standing squarely in the main temple courtyard at Hyangcheonsa Temple. Straight ahead of you is the Geukrak-jeon Hall. The exterior to the main hall is adorned with the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals), as well as wintry scenes of the temple. Stepping inside the Geukrak-jeon Hall, you’ll find a triad of statues on the main altar. In the centre rests an image of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). This central statue is joined on either side by images of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). To the right of the main altar are a pair of paintings. The first is dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife), while the other is the temple’s Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). To the left of the main altar, on the other hand, are paintings dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars) and Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). All four paintings appear to have been created by the same artist.

To the right of the Geukrak-jeon Hall, you’ll find a newly made outdoor stone statue dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha). And to the right of this statue are the monks’ dorms. To the left of the Geukrak-jeon Hall is the Nahan-jeon Hall. This compact shrine hall is adorned with beautiful dancheong colours. Stepping inside the Nahan-jeon Hall, you’ll find the main altar occupied by a solitary statue of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) inside a glass enclosure and joined by smaller images of the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha). And on either side of this main altar glass enclosure, you’ll find sixteen additional images of the Nahan. Out in front of the Nahan-jeon Hall is a damaged nine-story pagoda. It’s believed that this pagoda dates back to around the time of the temple’s founding in the mid-7th century.

To the left of the Nahan-jeon Hall is the rather slender Gwaneum-jeon Hall. The sparse interior is occupied by a solitary image of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). But most interestingly, and on the northern portion of the exterior walls of the shrine hall, you’ll find murals dedicated to the legends surrounding Hyangcheonsa Temple including the stone ship and the golden crows.

To the rear of the Nahan-jeon Hall, and before making your way to the courtyard that houses the Cheonbul-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Sanshin-gak Hall. One of the exterior walls to this shaman shrine hall is adorned with a regal-looking tiger. Stepping inside the shaman shrine hall, you’ll find a stunning painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) on the main altar. Of note is the tiger in the painting that rests its head on the knee of Sanshin with its penetrating eyes.

Up a trail to the west of the main courtyard, you’ll find secondary courtyard at Hyangcheonsa Temple. It’s around this area where the former spring that gave the temple its name was located. Passing through a simple entryway, you’ll notice two buildings for meditation. It’s beyond these that you’ll find the Cheonbul-jeon Hall. The Cheonbul-jeon Hall is presumed to have been built sometime during the late Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). The current building was dismantled and repaired in 1985. Since then, it’s undergone several other repairs. The exterior walls are adorned in beautiful Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Stepping inside the Cheonbul-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar fronted by three larger statues. The central image is that of an all-white statue of Seokgamoni-bul. Backing these three larger statues are 1,515 slender, white statues. They are smaller in size and made of plaster, while some of the bigger ones are carved of stone. These are not the same statues from the foundational legend, but they are unique and beautiful in their own right.

How To Get There

While you can take a bus from the Yesan Bus Terminal, it would include at least a thirty minute walk from where the bus drops you off. So the easiest way to get to Hyangcheonsa Temple is to take a taxi from the Yesan Bus Terminal. The taxi ride should be less than ten minutes, over 4.1 km, and it’ll cost you around 7,000 won (one way).

Overall Rating: 7/10

There are several highlights at Hyangcheonsa Temple including the interior of the Cheonbul-jeon Hall, the northern exterior wall paintings that depict the temple’s legend on the Gwaneum-jeon Hall, the Sanshin (Mountain Spirit) painting inside the Sanshin-gak Hall, as well as both the interior and exterior of the Geukrak-jeon Hall. There’s a lot to see and appreciate at Hyangcheonsa Temple, so take your time and take it all in.

The Boje-ru Pavilion at the entry of Hyangcheonsa Temple.
The Geukrak-jeon Hall with the stone statue dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha) to the right.
A wintry scene of the temple that adorns the exterior of the main hall.
And this Buddha-like image from the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals) that adorns the Geukrak-jeon Hall’s exterior walls, as well.
The main altar inside the Geukrak-jeon Hall.
In total, there are four paintings inside the main hall including this painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit).
The Nahan-jeon Hall to the left of the main altar with the Baekje-era nine-story pagoda out in front of it.
The main altar inside the Nahan-jeon Hall.
A closer look at the nine-story mid-7th century pagoda out in front of the Nahan-jeon Hall.
A look towards the Gwaneum-jeon Hall from the entry of the temple grounds.
The painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) inside the Sanshin-gak Hall to the rear of the Nahan-jeon Hall.
The entry to the side courtyard that houses the Cheonbul-jeon Hall.
And a look inside the Cheonbul-jeon Hall.

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