Ilchulam Hermitage – 일출암 (Pohang, Gyeongsangbuk-do)
Hermitage History
Ilchulam Hermitage, which is also known as the Ilchul-seonwon, is located just east of the airport in Pohang, Gyeongsangbuk-do and south of Mt. Unjangsan (234 m). The name of the hermitage means “Sunrise Hermitage” in English. Originally, the temple was first founded during the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.), however, very little is known about the temple’s history and the specific year that it was first established.
In 1914, the hermitage was rebuilt by the monk Hyegwang, who was visiting Girimsa Temple in Gyeongju. After this, a Buddhist academy was established at the hermitage to help protect traditional Korean Buddhism, which was under siege during Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45). In essence, the academy was established to help counter Japanese Buddhist temple policies. In 1922, the Seonu Mutual Aid Association was formed, which was meant to support Korean Buddhist monks, Korean Buddhist temples, and the potential loss of their tradition through the influence of Japanese colonial policies.
In 1972, the Daeung-jeon Hall was built at Ilchulam Hermitage. In addition to the Daeung-jeon Hall, the Sanshin-gak Hall and the Yosachae (monks’ dorms) were subsequently built on the hermitage grounds. Ilchulam Hermitage is one of the 982 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea.
Hermitage Layout
Next to a flowing stream, you’ll make your way down a country road, until you come to the hermitage parking lot. Upon arriving, you’ll need to climb a set of stairs. After climbing these stairs, you’ll be greeted by the Daeung-jeon Hall. The main hall is a bit boxy, but the exterior of the Daeung-jeon Hall is adorned with a masterful collection of Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a triad of statues on the main altar under a large, red datjib (canopy). In the centre of the triad is an image of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). On either side of this central image, Amita-bul is joined by a long-haired statue of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). Hanging on the far right wall is an elaborate Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). And if you look closely at the Shinjung Taenghwa, and you find the image of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), you’ll notice that this shaman deity is holding a baby tiger in his arms. Also in this area of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a beautiful Koi and hummingbird mural. And to the left of the main altar, you’ll find a Chilseong (Seven Stars) mural.
To the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall are the monks’ dorms. But it’s to the rear of the main hall, and up a set of stairs that’s joined by a sheer rock cliffs, that you’ll find the second shrine hall at Ilchulam Hermitage. This is the Sanshin-gak Hall, which functions as a Sanshin/Dokseong-gak Hall. While the Dokseong (Lonely Saint) mural is rather plain in its composition, it’s the Sanshin (Mountain Spirit) mural that stands out. Sanshin is hold the tiger’s tail, while the tiger smiles in its folkish design.
How To Get There
From the Pohang Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus #200 to get to Ilchulam Hermitage. After 26 stops, or 50 minutes, you’ll need to get off at the “Sangjeong Geomunso – 상정 검운소 하차” stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to walk about 700 metres, or 10 minutes, to get to Ilchulam Hermitage.
Overall Rating: 4/10
While smaller in size, there are a few highlights at Ilchulam Hermitage like the Sanshin mural inside the shaman shrine hall, the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals) that adorn the exterior walls of the Daeung-jeon Hall, as well as the main altar statue of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). In addition to all this, have a closer look at the Shinjung Taenghwa inside the main hall at Sanshin and his little tiger. Ilchulam Hermitage is a nice little hermitage with a few nice little features.