Jeungsimsa Temple – 증심사 (Dong-gu, Gwangju)
Temple History
Jeungsimsa Temple is located in Dong-gu, Gwangju in the western foothills of Mt. Mudeungsan (1,186.8 m). In fact, Jeungsimsa Temple is located in the western portion of Mudeungsan National Park. Jeungsimsa temple was first founded by the monk Cheolgam-seonsa (798-868 A.D.) in 860 A.D. However, there is some dispute as to when the temple was first founded. According to the “Gwangju Eupji – 광주읍지,” which was published in 1924, the temple was first founded in 517 A.D. by a Chinese monk named Cheolgam from the Liang Dynasty (502-519 A.D.). According to the “Gwangju Gunsa – 광주군사,” on the other hand, which was published in 1934, the temple was founded in 518 A.D.
To give greater clarity on the founding of the temple, and according to the “Ssam Bongsa Chang-geon Bi-mun – 쌍봉사창건비문,” which can be found at Ssangbongsa Temple in Hwasun, Jeollanam-do, it states that Cheolgam-seonsa, who was from Shaozhou (소주) during the Tianjian era of the Liang Dynasty (502-519 A.D.), came to Korea and founded Jeungsimsa Temple. However, historical records indicate that Cheolgam-seonsa was born in 798 A.D. He left home at the age of 18 to become a Buddhist monk. He would travel to Tang China (618–690, 705–907 A.D.) in 825 A.D. He studied under the famous Chinese Chan monk Nanquan Puyuan (749-835 A.D.) and returned to Korea in 847 A.D. Based upon this information, Jeungsimsa Temple was probably founded between 847 A.D. and 868 A.D., when Cheolgam-seonsa died at Ssangbongsa Temple.
The temple would later be restored in 1094 by Hyejo-guksa. It would be rebuilt for a second time in 1443 by Kim Bang, who was the governor of Jeolla-do. Kim would sponsor the creation of the five hundred Nahan, which would be housed inside the Obaek-jeon Hall. Jeungsimsa Temple would be destroyed during the Imjin War (1592-98). After this destructive war, the temple would be restored, once more, in 1609 by three monks, Seokgyeong, Sujang, and Dogwang.
Later, and during Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45), Jeungsimsa Temple became a center for Rinzai Zen. Following this period, the temple underwent several more rebuilds. However, in 1951, and during the Korean War (1950-53), the temple was almost completely destroyed by fire set by armed guerrilla fighters. The only shrine hall to survive was the Obaek-jeon Hall. It wasn’t until 1971 that a major reconstruction of the temple took place. Most of the current buildings date back to between the 1970s and 1980s.
There’s a rather interesting note about the temple’s name. Historically, it’s sometimes been referred to as Jingsimsa (澄心寺), instead of Jeungsimsa (證心寺). In records such as the “Reconstruction of the Medicine Buddha Hall,” which was written in 1856, the temple is known as Jingsimsa Temple. This is supported by other records like the “Soseokrak” written in 1868, and the “Shinmyo Yuseoseokrok,” which was written in 1891. However, at some point in the 1800s, the temple’s name must have changed because both names are often used at this time.
In total, Jeungsimsa Temple is home to one Korean Treasure, the “Iron Seated Vairocana Buddha of Jeungsimsa Temple.” There are three additional Tangible Cultural Heritage of Gwangju Metropolitan City. They are the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda,” the “Obaek-jeon Hall,” and the “Standing Stone Bodhisattva Statue of Jeungsimsa Temple.”
Temple Layout
From the entry of the Mudeungsan National Park, it’s about a one kilometre hike to Jeungsimsa Temple. Most of the hike is pretty level except for the final hundred metres, which is a bit of an incline as you pass by the stout Iljumun Gate and Budowon. Eventually, you’ll come to the Sacheonwangmun Gate, where the ground finally levels out. Housed inside the Sacheonwangmun Gate are four beautiful statues of the Four Heavenly Kings.
Up a set of uneven stone stairs, you’ll pass by the large Chwibaek-ru Pavilion to your right. This large entry pavilion is adorned in simple dancheong colours and used for larger dharma talks. To the left of the Chwibaek-ru Pavilion, you’ll find the Beomjong-gak Pavilion, which houses a solitary bronze bell inside it.
Having finally mounted all the stairs, you’ll find the Daeung-jeon Hall straight ahead of you. The exterior walls are adorned in a masterful collection of paintings that include the Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals), paintings dedicated to Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power) and Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom), as well as paintings of the Geumgang-yeoksa (Vajra Warriors). The front of the main hall is adorned with beautiful floral latticework, and the dragons on either side of the shrine hall’s signboard have golden eyes. Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar triad centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) and joined on either side by statues of Munsu-bosal and Bohyeon-bosal. To the left of the main altar, you’ll find a painting dedicated to the Bodhidharma. And hanging on the far left wall is a large Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the front left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the monks’ dorms. Recently, Jeungsimsa Temple had a fire which destroyed what looks to be an administrative office to the front right of the main hall. To the immediate right of the Daeung-jeon Hall, and spared from the recent fire, is the Jijang-jeon Hall. The exterior walls of this shrine hall are adorned in a horrifying collection of paintings dedicated to the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld) and the suffering of those in the underworld. Stepping inside the Jijang-jeon Hall, you’ll find a chubby, green-haired statue dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) on the main altar and holding a golden staff in its hand. This main altar statue of Jijang-bosal rests underneath a large datjib (canopy) that’s adorned with reliefs of lotus flowers. To the left and right of the main altar, you’ll find seated statues of the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld).
To the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, on the other hand, you’ll find the a pavilion that houses the “Standing Stone Bodhisattva Statue of Jeungsimsa Temple.” This is one of the Tangible Cultural Heritage of Gwangju Metropolitan City at Jeungsimsa Temple. This statue was originally located at Seobongsa Temple in Damyang. It was eventually moved to Jeungsimsa Temple after Seobongsa Temple fell into disrepair. This Bodhisattva has a long cylindrical crown, and it stands 2.06 metres in height. It stands atop a three-tier lotus base, and it’s believed to date back to the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). The style of the statue is reminiscent of the kneeling Bodhisattva found in front of the “Octagonal Nine-story Stone Pagoda of Woljeongsa Temple” in Pyeongchang, Gangwon-do.
To the rear of the Daeung-jeon Hall, and in the upper courtyard at Jeungsimsa Temple, you’ll find the central Obaek-jeon Hall. This is the oldest shrine hall at the temple. The exterior walls are adorned in simple dancheong colours. Stepping inside the Obaek-jeon Hall, you’ll find that the shrine hall houses five hundred Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha) statues. This type of shrine hall is also known as a Nahan-jeon Hall. The main altar is occupied by the central image of Seokgamoni-bul, who is joined on either side by his sixteen immediate disciples. And these main altar statues are backed by rows of smaller statues of the extended five hundred Nahan. The interior is reminiscent of the Obaek-jeon Hall at Unmunsa Temple in Cheongdo, Gyeongsangbuk-do.
In front of the Obaek-jeon Hall, you’ll find the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda.” This pagoda stands 3.2 metres in height, and it dates back to Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.). In 1971, the pagoda was dismantled and restored. However, parts of the roof stone and the second story stone of the pagoda have been damaged. Overall, the pagoda is quite typical of the time period that it was first built.
To the left of the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda” and the Obaek-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Biro-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in paintings dedicated to the Nahan. Stepping inside the shrine hall, you’ll find the “Iron Seated Vairocana Buddha of Jeungsimsa Temple.” Originally, this iron seated Buddha, who depicts Birojana-bul (The Buddha of Cosmic Energy), was located in Donggye-ri, Seobang-myeon, Gwangju. Eventually, it would be moved to Jeungsimsa Temple in 1934. Although both the mandorla and the pedestal are missing, the statue is completely intact. The statue has a slight smile on its oval face, and its facial features are realistic in composition. The robe covers both of its shoulders, and it has a wide chest. Instead of having the right hand hold the left fingers to form the diamond fist mudra (ritualized hand gesture), the left hand is holding the right fingers. While not as refined as other iron Buddhas like the “Iron Seated Vairocana Buddha of Dopiansa Temple” in Cheorwon, Gangwon-do or the “Iron Seated Vairocana Buddha of Borimsa Temple” in Jangheung, Jeollanam-do, the “Iron Seated Vairocana Buddha of Jeungsimsa Temple” is well-balanced. While the exact date of this iron statue is unknown, it’s believed to have been first built at the end of the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.) in the 9th century.
To the left rear of the Obaek-jeon Hall is the elevated Sanshin-gak Hall. Up a set of wooden stairs, you’ll gain access to the diminutive shaman shrine hall. The exterior walls of the Sanshin-gak Hall are adorned with a tiger mural on the left exterior wall and a mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) on the right exterior wall. Entering the diminutive shaman shrine hall, you’ll find a solitary painting dedicated to Sanshin on the main altar. Sanshin holds a feather fan with a golden handle. To his side is a majestic-looking tiger with its two cubs. And one of the dongja (attendants) in the painting is playing with one of the cubs.
To the right rear of the Obaek-jeon Hall are two additional pagodas. One is five-stories in height, while the other is a seven-story stone structure. It’s unclear just how old these two pagodas might be in age.
How To Get There
From the Gwangju General Bus Terminal (U-Square), you can catch the bus named “Cheomdan 09 – 천단09.” You’ll need to take this bus for 34 minutes, or 16 stops, and get off at the “Mudeungsan gukrim-gongwon (Jeungsimsa) – 무등산국립공원 (증심사) 하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, head towards the Mudeungsan National Park entry. The hike will last 1.5 km, or 35 minutes. Just follow the signs along the way, and it should bring you to Jeungsimsa Temple.
Overall Rating: 7.5/10
There are quite a few highlights to Jeungsimsa Temple including where it’s located in Mudeungsan National Park. In addition to its surroundings, the “Iron Seated Vairocana Buddha of Jeungsimsa Temple” in the Biro-jeon Hall is just one of these highlights. Other things to enjoy are the paintings surrounding the exterior walls of the Daeung-jeon Hall and the Jijang-jeon Hall, the “Standing Stone Bodhisattva Statue of Jeungsimsa Temple,” the interior of the Obaek-jeon Hall, and the artwork adorning both the interior an the exterior of the elevated Sanshin-gak Hall.
