Gyeongsangnam-do

Jigoksa Temple – 지곡사 (Sancheong, Gyeongsangnam-do)

A Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Mural) that Adorns the Exterior of the Daeung-jeon Hall at Jigoksa Temple in Sancheong, Gyeongsangnam-do.

Temple History

Jigoksa Temple is located in southern Sancheong, Gyeongsangnam-do in the southern foothills of Mt. Gisan (616.1 m) near Simjeoksa Temple. It’s believed that Jigoksa Temple was first founded during the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.), but historical records indicate that the temple was probably first established some time during Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.). It’s believed that the temple was first founded by the monk Eungjin, and it was initially named Guktaesa Temple. After his death, the monk Hyewol renovated the temple and expanded it greatly during the early Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). During this time, the temple was renowned as one of the five great Seon temples.

At its peak, over 300 monks practiced at the temple. Purportedly, the main entrance was decorated with an arched bridge. According to the historical record entitled “Yusaneumhyeon-jigoksagi,” which was written by the monk Hongyu (1718-1774), it describes how there was a Cheonwangmun Gate and Geumgangmun Gate at the temple. Also, there were corridors and temple dorms on either side of the main temple courtyard.

The temple continued to thrive until the mid-19th century, where it hosted both lectures and gatherings. The temple would close for unknown reasons at the end of the late 19th century. When the Japanese colonial government began registering temples between 1912 and 1913, Jigoksa Temple was no longer listed as an active temple. It was later reconstructed in 1958 by the monk Kang Deok. At this time, Jigoksa Temple was reconstructed on the former site of the Sanshin-gak Hall.

More recently, archaeological work has been conducted in and around the temple site revealing key discoveries such as the Geumdang-ji Hall Site, which was a structure believed to have housed Buddhist statues and relics. The location of the Geumdang-ji Hall Site is on the elevated southern hillside. Additionally, five building sites at the temple were revealed, as well, that appear to date back to Unified Silla through to the Goryeo Dynasty and up to the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). This archaeological evidence helps prove that the temple was in use during these different time periods. Jigoksa Temple is one of the 982 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea.

The Jigoksa-ji Temple Site during Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45). The exact date of the picture is unknown. (Picture courtesy of the National Museum of Korea).
Another picture from the Jigoksa-ji Temple Site during Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45). The exact date of the picture is unknown. (Picture courtesy of the National Museum of Korea).

Temple Layout

Up an elevated entryway, you’ll first find the Beomjong-gak Pavilion. Housed inside this pavilion is a beautiful bronze bell adorned with reliefs of Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities).

Beyond the Beomjong-gak Hall is the Daeung-jeon Hall. The main hall is rather small in size. The exterior walls are adorned with distinctive Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals), as well as a white monk-like images in secluded, scenic locations. Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll be greeted by a main altar triad surprisingly centred by Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). Typically, a Daeung-jeon Hall houses the primary image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). Flanking this central image are statues dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). All three images are surrounded by fiery mandorla. And while the central image of Amita-bul is seated, the two flanking Bodhisattvas are standing. Also housed inside the Daeung-jeon Hall is a golden painting dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife), as well as a red-accented Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). Both paintings are modern in composition.

To the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Samseong-gak Hall. One of the exterior walls to the shaman shrine hall is adorned with a fading, yet fierce, painting of a tiger. In this painting, the sun is being cradled by a white cloud. Stepping inside the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find a collection of three shaman paintings. The central painting, as you walk into the low-ceilinged shrine hall, is dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). The painting of Sanshin is joined by a ferocious tiger. To the left of this central image is a grumpy, ghost-like image of Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). And to the right of the central image of Sanshin is an older Chilseong (Seven Stars) painting. The central image of Jeseok-bul (Indra) in this painting is actually faceless.

And to the left of the elevated Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find both the monks’ dorms and the administrative office at Jigoksa Temple.

How To Get There

You can take Bus #6 from the Sancheong Bus Terminal to get to Jigoksa Temple. The bus ride should take about 7 minutes, or 2 stops, and you’ll need to get off at the “Jigok-maeul – 지곡마을 하차” bus stop. From the bus stop, you’ll need to head southwest towards the temple. The hike, which is about 850 metres in length, should take about 15 minutes.

And if public transportation isn’t your thing, you can simply take a taxi from the Sancheong Bus Terminal to get to Jigoksa Temple. The taxi ride should take about 8 minutes, or 4.2 km, and it’ll cost you 8,000 won (one way).

Overall Rating: 5/10

While a lot smaller than its former self, there are still a few highlights at Jigoksa Temple like the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals) that adorn the exterior of the Daeung-jeon Hall. As for the interior of the main hall, it’s definitely the fiery main altar triad that stands out. The tiger mural that adorns the exterior of the Samseong-gak Hall is fierce, while all of the shaman murals inside the shrine hall are somewhat older in age and different in composition. And if you have the time, make sure you check out the former temple site, Jigoksa-ji Temple Site along the way.

The entryway to Jigoksa Temple.
The Beomjong-gak Pavilion (left), Samseong-gak Hall (centre), and the Daeung-jeon Hall (right).
A look through the Beomjong-gak Pavilion.
The Daeung-jeon Hall (right) and Samseong-gak Hall (left).
One of the white monk-like paintings that adorns the exterior of the main hall.
Joined by this unique Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Mural).
The fiery main altar triad inside the Daeung-jeon Hall.
Joined by this golden painting dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife).
And this red-accented Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
The view from the main hall.
The fierce tiger that adorns the exterior of the Samseong-gak Hall.
Joined by this ghost-like image of Dokseong (The Lonely Saint).
And this Chilseong (Seven Stars) painting inside the Samseong-gak Hall.

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