Jinbulsa Temple – 진불사 (Pohang, Gyeongsangbuk-do)
Temple History
Jinbulsa Temple is located to the west of Mt. Gonggaesan (213.7 m) in eastern Pohang, Gyeongsangbuk-do near the East Sea. Jinbulsa Temple was purportedly first founded during the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.). It’s said that it was later destroyed by a landslide during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). It would be rebuilt in 1912. Additionally, Jinbulsa Temple belongs to the Taego-jong Order, which is the second largest Buddhist sect in Korea. It’s also one of the 973 traditional temples in Korea.
Temple Layout
Jinbulsa Temple is a smaller sized temple with a peculiar feel to it. With only a handful of shrine halls, Jinbulsa Temple is quite unique, and you’ll instantly feel this the moment you arrive. You first approach the temple grounds past some neighbouring farms after hanging a right at Heunghwan Beach. Finally, you’ll arrive at an opening in a forest that houses the main temple courtyard.
From the temple parking lot, and to your immediate left, you’ll find the administrative office at Jinbulsa Temple. Straight ahead, on the other hand, you’ll find the three temple shrine halls at the Jinbulsa Temple. The largest of the three, which is located in the centre, is the unpainted Daeung-jeon Hall.
Stepping inside the main hall, you’ll be greeted by a rather peculiar interior. Resting on the main altar are a triad of statues. The central image is that of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). To the right and left of this centre image are statues of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion), who sports a wonderfully colourful crown, and Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). This triad is book-ended by two folkish-looking dragon heads. To the right of the main altar are a row of miniature statues dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul. It’s also in this part of the main hall that you’ll find an older, off-coloured, Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). To the left of the main altar, on the other hand, are a pair of statues. The first of the two is a stone statue dedicated to Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha). And to the left of this statue is a more typical image of Gwanseeum-bosal. Rounding out the interior of the Daeung-jeon Hall is a beautiful mural dedicated to Jijang-bosal.
To the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall is another unpainted shrine hall. This shrine hall rests under a collection of pine trees. This shrine hall is the Sanshin-gak Hall. Inside this shrine hall once hung one of the strangest images dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) in all of Korea. Sanshin himself is crudely painted, while the black tiger that accompanies him looks more like a dragon/dog combination than a fierce tiger. Now, however, it appears as though the old Sanshin painting has been replaced by a more refined modern image of the Mountain Spirit.
To the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall stands the Chilseong-gak Hall. It’s between the main hall and the Chilseong-gak Hall that you’ll find a seated, golden statue dedicated to Jijang-bosal. Once more, and like the two previous shrine halls at Jinbulsa Temple, the Chilseong-gak Hall is unpainted. Hanging on the main altar inside the shaman shrine hall is an older image dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). To the left of the main altar painting is a jade incarnation of what looks to be Gwanseeum-bosal. And to the right of the Chilseong painting is a golden statue of a figure that looks somewhat deformed and unrecognizable in appearance. Perhaps a Nahan (A Historical Disciple of the Buddha)?
How To Get There
From the Pohang Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus #200 for 23 minutes, or 17 stops, and get off at the “Dogu 2-ri Maeul-Hoegwang Bus Stop.” From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to take the bus that reads “Donghae-Jiseon,” or “Ohcheon-Jiseon” on it. From either one of these buses, get off after 13 stops, or 16 minutes, at the “Heunghwa-ri Bus Stop.” You’ll need to then walk 2.2 km, or 30 minutes, to get to Jinbulsa Temple.
Overall Rating: 5/10
Jinbulsa Temple is one of the more scenically located temples in Korea that’s only a stone’s throw away from the East Sea. It’s also one of the stranger temples you’ll visit. The iconography inside the three temple shrine halls can be quite unique. It’s unfortunately that the former Sanshin (Mountain Spirit) painting is no longer inside the Sanshin-gak Hall, but there’s still enough oddities to see at the temple to keep your attention like the multi-coloured crown of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, as well as the folkish-looking dragon heads inside the main hall. These are just a few things that stand out. While smaller in size, Jinbulsa Temple might be worth a look for something a bit outside the every day.
