Moeunam Hermitage – 모은암 (Gimhae, Gyeongsangnam-do)
Hermitage History
Moeunam Hermitage is located on the western slopes of Mt. Mucheoksan (702.5 m) in northern Gimhae, Gyeongsangnam-do. The temple’s founding is linked to two legends. One legend suggests that King Geodeung of Geumgwan Gaya, who was the second king of Geumgwan Gaya (43–532 A.D.), built Moeunam Hermitage to honour his mother, Queen Heo Hwang-ok (32 A.D. – 189 A.D.). The other foundational legend, which is found in the “Sungseonjeonji,” claims that King Suro of Geumgwan Gaya (? – 199 A.D.), who was the founding king of Geumgwan Gaya, established the temple as a memorial temple to pay tribute to his mother. Of the two, however, it would seem that the latter is more plausible.
The hermitage is home to one provincial treasure, it’s the “Stone Seated Amitabha Buddha of Moeunam Hermitage, Gimhae.”
Hermitage Legend
There are numerous legends connected to Moeunam Hermitage and Geumgwan Gaya. King Suro of Geumgwan Gaya (? – 199 A.D.) was the first king of Geumgwan Gaya. He would marry Queen Heo Hwang-ok, who purportedly arrived from a distant kingdom called “Ayuta.” Together, they would have ten sons. Among them, seven of the sons would attain enlightenment under the guidance of Jangyu-hwasang, who was a Buddhist monk and brother of Queen Heo. The seven sons would reach enlightenment at Chilbulsa Temple. So while Chilbulsa Temple on Mt. Jirisan is meant to symbolize the royal family’s spiritual side, Moeunam Hermitage on Mt. Mucheonsan represents the familial connection of the royals.
As for the name of the mountain where Moeunam Hermitage is located, Mt. Mucheoksan, it means “peerless” or “incomparable” in English. The name of the mountain is meant to symbolize its unmatched beauty and/or prominence. Another interpretation of the mountain’s name is believed to be connected to the Buddhist term “muchak,” which means “non-attachment.” Moeunam Hermitage was originally named “Moam – 無着,” which means “Mother Hermitage” in English. Now, however, Moeunam Hermitage means “Mother Grace Hermitage” in English.
As for the topography around Moeunam Hermitage, it has unique rock formations including a large phallic rock which is meant to symbolize fertility. A little further up Mt. Mucheoksan, and you’ll come to a large lake known as Cheon-ji, which is “Heavenly Pond” in English. According to a legend, ten years after Queen Heo died, King Suro also died. Purportedly, his tomb was built on flat land northeast of the royal palace. However, when they started to dig, water kept flooding the site, making it impossible as a burial site. Perplexed, the royal court consulted a pungsu-jiri (geomancy, feng shui) expert, who suggested that the energy flowing between Mt. Mucheoksan and the burial site was causing the problem. The solution, at least according to the pungsu-jiri expert, was to dig a pond near the peak of Mt. Mucheoksan. This would need to be done to help redirect the water in the area. Following this advice, workers created this pond. This then allowed for the burial site to dry out and for the funeral of King Suro to proceed. Cheon-ji Pond is considered the earliest recorded artificial pond on the Korean Peninsula, which adds to its historical significance.
Another interesting aspect to the landscape of Mt. Mucheoksan, and how it affects Moeunam Hermitage, are the pair of black rocks in front of the Daeung-jeon Hall. This pair of black rocks is said to represent the reclining figure of Queen Heo’s mother. If you look close enough, it’s not hard to imagine a person lying down peacefully, which aligns with the legend of Queen Heo offering prayers to honour her mother’s grace.
Hermitage Layout
From the hermitage parking lot, you’ll make your way up a side-winding set of stone stairs. It’s not all that far, but it’s uneven in parts. The first thing that indicates that you’re drawing close to the hermitage grounds is a stele at the base of a sheer rock wall. Crossing a bridge, and around another bend, you’ll finally come to Moeunam Hermitage.
From the heights of Moeunam Hermitage, and if you look across the valley, you’ll see Mt. Jakyaksan and Gucheonam Hermitage off in the distance. As for Moeunam Hermitage, and to the right in the compact hermitage courtyard, you’ll find the Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to this long and narrow main hall are adorned in simple dancheong colours. Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, and underneath a simple datjib (canopy), you’ll find a triad of statues centred by Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). This is the “Stone Seated Amitabha Buddha of Moeunam Hermitage, Gimhae.” Amita-bul is a gilded stone statue. The statue is presumed to have been made by a monk under the school of Saeknan, who was active in the early 18th century in both Gyeongsang-do Province and Jeolla-do Province. The statue is quite small, measuring just 55.7 cm in height including its pedestal. The head of the statue is bigger relative to its body, making it look almost child-like in appearance. There’s also a hollow space inside the statue, however, the relics that were once housed inside this space are long gone.
To the right and left of this central image of Amita-bul are two equally diminutive statues dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). To the left of this main altar, you’ll find a newer Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). To the right of the main altar, on the other hand, you’ll first find a shrine dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). To the right of this shrine is a statue and painting dedicated to what looks to be Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). And on the far right wall, you’ll find a Gamno-do (Sweet Dew Mural).
To the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the administrative office at Moeunam Hermitage. And out in front of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the pair of black rocks from the hermitage legend that’s meant to represent the reclining figure of Queen Heo’s mother.
To the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll first see the Beomjong-gak Pavilion. The upper portion of the pavilion is quite elaborate. Housed inside this pavilion, you’ll find a lone bronze bell. Between the Beomjong-gak Pavilion and the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a seokdeung (stone lantern) out in front of a stairway that leads up to the Samseong-gak Hall. You’ll need to pass through a half-moon crevice opening to find yourself at the entry of the shaman shrine hall. Stepping inside the tightly fitted Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll first be greeted by an older image of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). To the left of this painting is another older painting; this time, dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). And to the far left, and elevated, is a statue and painting dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars).
Down the stairs, and directly behind the Beomjong-gak Pavilion, you’ll find another set of stairs. This time, it isn’t quite the squeeze to make your way up to the final shrine hall at Moeunam Hermitage. This shrine hall is the Gwaneum-jeon Hall. The exterior of this newly constructed Gwaneum-jeon Hall is painted in simple dancheong colours. Stepping inside the Gwaneum-jeon Hall, you’ll find a beautifully crowned image of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion), which is backed by a painting that has the thirty-three incarnations of Gwanseeum-bosal in it. It’s also from the heights of the Gwaneum-jeon Hall that you get another great view of the valley below and southern Gimhae off in the distance.
How To Get There
To get to Moeunam Hermitage from the Gimhae Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll simply need to take Bus #61 for 31 stops, or 42 minutes, and get off at the “Mucheoksan Ipgu Hacha – 무척산입구하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to head east. Follow the signs along the way. In total, the hike to the hermitage from the bus stop is 1.1 km, or 35 minutes, in distance. In total, the trip from the Gimhae Intercity Bus Terminal to Moeunam Hermitage should take about an hour and twenty minutes.
Overall Rating: 6/10
There are so many great legends connected to Moeunam Hermitage. In addition to these legends and beautiful topography, you can also enjoy the narrow passageway leading up to the Samseong-gak Hall, the “Stone Seated Amitabha Buddha of Moeunam Hermitage, Gimhae” inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, and the thirty-three images of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) inside the Gwaneum-jeon Hall. While lesser known, Moeunam Hermitage is definitely a beautiful break from the everyday.
