Poseok-gok Valley – 포석곡 (Gyeongju)
Valley Layout
The Poseok-gok Valley is located on the northwestern side of Mt. Namsan (495.1 m) in Gyeongju. While not as popular as the neighbouring Samneung-gol Valley or Chilbulam Hermitage on Mt. Namsan, Poseok-gok Valley, and the parallel valley to the north, are filled with four sites for visitors to explore. In total, and depending on how much of the hike you want to do, it can be about 4.5 km, or around 2 hours, to hike the looping trails.
From the Poseok-jeong Pavilion parking lot, you’ll make your way east up a paved pathway for about 400 metres. Eventually, you’ll come to the Seonamsan Park Ranger Post. The trail forks to the left and right. Either way is fine to complete the loop around the Poseok-gok Valley trail, but I decided to head up the north trail that forks to the left. This valley runs 1.3 km, until you take a turn towards Buheungsa Temple. However, about 500 metres up this trail, you’ll come to the “Seated Rock-carved Buddha of Baeri Yuneulgok, Gyeongju.” From the main trail, you’ll need to hike an additional 70 metres up a pretty steep trail, until you come to a clearing that houses this rock relief.
A: The “Seated Rock-carved Buddha of Baeri Yuneulgok, Gyeongju”
The “Seated Rock-carved Buddha of Baeri Yuneul-gok, Gyeongju” is carved into an L-shaped rock wall. There are three figures carved into the rock. There are two on the southeast-facing surface and one on the southwest-facing surface. Together, they form an unusual triad. The central Buddha sits atop a lotus pedestal. The topknot of the head is especially long and prominent. Its face is oval-shaped, and it has a small smile. Its right hand is heavily eroded but it appears as though it’s raised with its palm facing outward and the fingers pointing upward. The left hand rests on its knee. Together, the mudra (ritualized hand gesture) symbolizes the “Touching the Earth” murdra. This central image appears to be Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha).
The image to the left is slightly smaller than the central Buddha. The face is rounded, and its shoulders are slightly raised, which forms a square torso. The right hand rests on its knee with slightly bent fingers. The left hand appears to hold a small medicinal jar. This suggests that this image is Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise).
The final image, and the one all alone on the southwest-facing surface, is the most crudely carved of the three. The face is roughly formed and lacks finish. The facial features are only outlined, while the body is flat and square-shaped. This relief also appears as though its either holding a medicinal jar or orb. It’s hard to be sure. Near the nimbus of this figure is an inscription that indicates that the reliefs were carved in the 10th year of King Heungdeok of Silla’s reign, which was 835 A.D. The “Seated Rock-carved Buddha of Baeri Yuneulgok, Gyeongju” is a Tangible Cultural Heritage of Gyeongsangbuk-do.
B: The “Seated Rock-carved Buddha at Poseok-gok Valley Temple Site No. 5, Mt. Namsan, Gyeongju”
Continuing up the trail for another 700 metres, or just 100 metres from where you need to head south at the crossroads that forks towards Buheungsa Temple, you’ll make your way up a side trail that leads to the “Seated Rock-carved Buddha at Poseok-gok Valley Temple Site No. 5, Mt. Namsan, Gyeongju.” You’ll need to head up this side trail for 160 metres. Eventually, you’ll come to a ridge entrance where the relief is located.
This seated image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) appears to be sitting atop a single layer lotus pedestal. The image is carved directly onto the face of the cliff that’s ten metres tall. The image itself measures 224 cm in height, and the relief faces west. Overall, the relief is minimalistic in style. The relief appears as though it’s making the “Touching the Earth” mudra, which is meant to symbolize the moment of the Buddha’s enlightenment. The face is broad and long with elongated ears. In comparison to its face, the body is quite large. The facial features are somewhat rough with slightly upturned narrow eyes, a long nose, and large lips. The neck has three fine lines, which are known as “samdo” in Korean. It also has rounded shoulders and knees. As for its robe, it’s draped over both shoulders and clings tightly to the Buddha’s body. Also, there’s a mandorla that surrounds both the body and head of Seokgamoni-bul. Based upon the style of the relief, it’s estimated to have been first created during the 10th century during the transition from Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.) to the early Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392).
Additionally, below the statue, several scattered roof tile fragments were found. This suggests that this location was once home to a Buddhist temple. However, no shrine hall foundations are visible at the former temple site. Rather surprisingly, the “Seated Rock-carved Buddha at Poseok-gok Valley Temple Site No. 5, Mt. Namsan, Gyeongju” isn’t even a provincial treasure. I think on any other mountain and in any other city that it would be.
C: Buheungsa Temple
Instead of heading back to the main trail, you can head east up a narrow trail that eventually becomes much wider. Finally, you’ll reconnect with the main trail. Now, instead of Buheungsa Temple being 600 metres away – which was the distance still remaining to the temple from the entry of the second side-trail – you’re now only 200 metres away.
Buheungsa Temple is a branch temple of the famed Bulguksa Temple of the Jogye-jong Order of Korean Buddhism. Buheungsa Temple was first established in 1971 on the site of an old temple. The temple is relatively modest, consisting of just two temple shrine halls and the monks’ dorms.
You first approach Buheungsa Temple from the north up a winding dirt road. This road splits in half with the lower road leading towards the monks’ dorms and a modern five-story stone pagoda. The upper road eventually gives way to a clearing. Housed inside this clearing is the Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with a pair of paintings from the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by a triad centred by Seokgamoni-bul. This central image is joined on either side by statues of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). The beams of the structure are adorned with a pair of blue Gwimyeon (Monster Masks). And to the right of the main altar, you’ll find a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). To the left of the main altar, on the other hand, you’ll find a shrine dedicated to Jijang-bosal. The rest of the interior is filled with rows of tiny statues dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal.
To the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall is an area for hikers to rest. This includes a place to sit or refill your water bottle. To the right of this is the hidden Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls to this shaman shrine hall are adorned with a scenic landscape and a painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). In this painting, Sanshin is joined by a blue-eyed tiger. Stepping inside the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find straight ahead of you two paintings. The painting to the right is dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint), while the painting to the left is dedicated to Sanshin. In this painting of Sanshin, the Mountain Spirit is now joined by a golden diamond-eyed tiger. And on the far left wall is a painting dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). All three paintings appear to have been created by the same artist.
D: The “Five-story Stone Pagoda at the Sixth Temple Site in Poseokgok Valley of Mt. Namsan, Gyeongju”
This pagoda, which was visible the entire time you were at Buheungsa Temple to the south, can be accessed across a janky wooden bridge that spans a dry stream. The hike up to the five-story pagoda from the Samseong-gak Hall is about 300 to 400 metres. The pagoda is located at the top of Neumbi-bong Peak.
The “Five-story Stone Pagoda at the Sixth Temple Site in Poseok-gok Valley of Mt. Namsan, Gyeongju” is located in a clearing on the peak that overlooks the valley and western Gyeongju below. It’s presumed that the pagoda was built at the end of Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.) and the start of the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). And yet, even though it was constructed around this time in the Silla Kingdom, it’s designed like a pagoda from the Baekje Kingdom (18 B.C. – 660 A.D.).
The pagoda was discovered having collapsed. It was finally repaired and reassembled in 2002 during an excavation of a nearby Buddhist temple site. The pagoda was reconstructed using a single-tiered base attached to the natural rock face of the mountain. It has five-stories and a simple finial adorning the top of the pagoda. Several parts of the pagoda were newly added during the repair because they no longer existed. So when looking at the five-story pagoda, it’s easy to differentiate the old from the newer parts of the pagoda. The lighter coloured pieces are new, while the darker pieces are from the original pagoda. In total, the pagoda features no decorative engravings.
There are two interesting features about this pagoda. First, the views are absolutely stunning! Second, if the pagoda was in fact Baekje in origin, and it was erected on a ridge of Mt. Namsan overlooking the royal capital in close proximity to the royal palace, it has considerable symbolic significance, as well. Additionally, the pagoda is another Tangible Cultural Heritage of Gyeongsangbuk-do.
How To Get There
From the Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus #500 towards Poseok-gok Valley. Take this bus for 18 stops, or 22 minutes, and get off at the “Poseok-jeong – 포석정 하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, cross the street and head east towards the Poseok-jeong Pavilion. In this area, you’ll find the parking lot for the pavilion. It’s to the east of this that the trail begins. I headed up the northern trail that eventually linked up with Buheungsa Temple and the “Five-story Stone Pagoda at the Sixth Temple Site in Poseok-gok Valley of Mt. Namsan, Gyeongju.” Or you could do it in reverse and head up the southern trail. Both trails eventually link up with the other.
Overall Rating: 8/10
There’s a lot to love and appreciate about this Poseok-gok Valley trail. While lesser known, it’s definitely worth a morning to explore. It’s not too arduous, and the views at the top are stunning. Starting at the “Seated Rock-carved Buddha of Baeri Yuneul-gok, Gyeongju” and continuing onto the The “Seated Rock-carved Buddha at Poseok-gok Valley Temple Site No. 5, Mt. Namsan, Gyeongju,” both set of reliefs are beautiful. Eventually, you’ll come to the end of the trail at Buheungsa Temple. The highlights to this temple are the pair of Sanshin (Mountain Spirit) paintings, as well as the blue beam paintings of Gwimyeon (Monster Masks). But of the entire hike, it’s the “Five-story Stone Pagoda at the Sixth Temple Site in Poseok-gok Valley of Mt. Namsan, Gyeongju” that’s the main highlight. The views. The style. The symbolism. This pagoda has it all. So if you’re looking for something different, this is the hike for you.
