Seongjeonam Hermitage – 성전암 (Jinju, Gyeongsangnam-do)
Hermitage History
To the south of Mt. Baekisan (369 m) in eastern Jinju, Gyeongsangnam-do, you’ll find Seongjeonam Hermitage. The hermitage was first established in 879 A.D. by the famed monk Doseon-guksa (826-898 A.D.). The construction of Seongjeonam Hermitage was based upon Doseon-guksa applying the principles of pungsu-jiri (geomancy, feng shui). Doseon-guksa believed that the vital energy from Mt. Baekdusan, flowing southward along the east coast, peaked at Mt. Samgaksan to the north and Mt. Yeohangsan to the south. Recognizing this location as an auspicious site for a great temple, Doseon-guksa built Seongjeonam Hermitage.
The exact details of the hermitage’s history after its founding are unknown. It’s not until the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) that the history of Seongjeonam Hermitage gets clearer. Before ascending to the throne, King Injo of Joseon (r. 1623-1649) spent one hundred days praying at the hermitage. After he became king, King Injo of Joseon built a shrine at the hermitage called the Injo-gak Hall. The shrine hall houses the spirit tablet of King Injo. Additionally, and after King Injo of Joseon became king, the nearby village was named Jangan-ri, which means “Capital Village” in English.
In 2010, a fire broke out at Seongjeonam Hermitage, which destroyed the Daeung-jeon Hall and the Nahan-jeon Hall. Fortunately, the Injo-gak Hall was spared, as was the “Wooden Seated Buddha of Seongjeonam Hermitage, Jinju,” which is a Gyeongsangnam-do Tangible Cultural Heritage. This fire was followed by an act of arson in 2014. Once more, and thanks to the efforts of the monks at the hermitage, the key cultural assets were protected. In subsequent years, and replacing the Daeung-jeon Hall, a Muryangsu-jeon Hall was built.
Hermitage Layout
Seongjeonam Hermitage is beautifully located in a secluded and rugged part of Mt. Baekisan. As a result, it’s a popular place for meditation. With all this in mind, the long road leading up to the hermitage is quite steep in parts. When you do eventually arrive at the diminutive parking lot, there are three levels to Seongjeonam Hermitage.
The lowest courtyard of the hermitage houses the monks’ dorms, kitchen, and administrative office. Around the bend to the south, and you’ll find a two-story Beomjong-gak Hall. The first story is nothing more than a shed for shovels and brooms for the monks to use in maintaining the hermitage grounds. As for the second story, there is a large bronze bell that takes up residence inside a pavilion.
Now taking the trail that heads to the north, you’ll slowly enter into the lower courtyard of the hermitage grounds. The first building to welcome you is the plainly adorned exterior of the Injo-gak Hall. Housed inside this structure is the spirit tablet for King Injo of Joseon.
Further along, and next to the Injo-gak Hall, is the newly constructed Muryangsu-jeon Hall. Like the Injo-gak Hall, the exterior of the main hall has remained unpainted. Up near the signboard for the main hall, you’ll find a pair of fierce-looking dragon heads that are also unpainted. And continuing with this unpainted theme, the floral latticework of the Muryangsu-jeon Hall are simply stunning. Stepping inside the Muryangsu-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by a triad centred by a large statue of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). To the left of this large central image is a smaller statue of Amita-bul. This image is known as the “Wooden Seated Buddha of Seongjeonam Hermitage, Jinju.” This image of Amita-bul was first made in 1644 according to a document found inside the statue. It measures 60 cm in height and 43 cm in width. The statue was saved twice in its history. The first was during bombing during the Korean War (1950-53), which caused most of the buildings at Seongjeonam Hermitage to be destroyed. Fortunately, the wooden statue of Amita-bul was spared. The second time it was spared, and was already mentioned, was in 2014. To the right of the large, central image of Amita-bul, you’ll find a smaller statue dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise).
To the left of the main altar, you’ll find a beautiful, modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) that includes, rather prominently, Chilseong (The Seven Stars) in the top left corner. And to the right of the main altar, you’ll find a mural dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). Rather interestingly, you’ll find a pair of images in this painting that you don’t usually see. The first, and to the bottom right of Jijang-bosal, is an image of what looks to be a member of the Korean Independence Army. In particular, the image of this soldier almost looks like Hong Beom-do (1868-1943). And to the front left of Jijang-bosal, you’ll find a woman also from around the March 1st Movement. In fact, the woman dressed all in white and holding a Korean flag in her hands looks to be Yu Gwan-sun (1902-20).
To the right rear of the Muryangsu-jeon Hall, and up a set of uneven stone stairs, you’ll find the Sanshin-gak/Yongwang-dang Hall that’s housed in the upper courtyard at Seongjeonam Hermitage. Again, the exterior to this shaman shrine hall is left unadorned. Stepping inside this hall, you’ll find two paintings on the main altar. The first of these is a painting dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King), who sits upon his throne with his watery kingdom in the background. Joining this painting is a painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). In this painting, a dongja (attendant) looks down upon the fierce tiger, which is staring off in the distance.
Continuing up another set of stone stairs, you’ll come to another unpainted shrine hall. This is the Nahan-jeon Hall. In total, there are three main altar paintings dedicated to the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha). These three paintings are fronted by three statues. The central image is a golden Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). The two flanking stone statues are Nahan. To the left of the Nahan-jeon Hall, you’ll find rows of stone statues of the Nahan. These statues have been placed in an artificial cave cut from a sheer mountain wall. It’s also from this part of the temple grounds that you get beautiful views of the valley below.
How To Get There
There’s really no easy way to get to Seongjeonam Hermitage from either Jinju or neighbouring Haman. So with that being said, the only real way to get to the hermitage is through your own mode of transportation.
Overall Rating: 6.5/10
There’s a lot to enjoy and appreciate in and around Seongjeonam Hermitage like the views. In addition to its secluded location, you can also enjoy the “Wooden Seated Buddha of Seongjeonam Hermitage, Jinju” inside the newly built Muryangsu-jeon Hall, which is adorned with beautiful dragon heads and stunning floral latticework. Also, and perhaps one of the most original paintings dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) can be found inside the Muryangsu-jeon Hall. The reason I say that it’s so original is because of the March 1st Movement individuals in the painting. Overall, Seongjeonam Hermitage makes for a nice little surprise.
