Simjeoksa Temple – 심적사 (Sancheong, Gyeongsangnam-do)
Temple History
Simjeoksa Temple is located in southern Sancheong, Gyeongsangnam-do in the southern foothills of Mt. Gisan (616.1 m), which is just outside Jirisan National Park. Simjeoksa Temple was first founded in 929 A.D.; however, the founder of the temple is unknown. Nothing is known about the temple until it was rebuilt in 1610 by the monks Seolam, Iam, and Seolbong. Most of the temple’s history remains unrecorded. However, we do know that the temple was destroyed during the Korean War (1950-53). Restoration work started on the temple in 1976, this included the rebuilding of the Nahan-jeon Hall at Simjeoksa Temple.
Temple Legend
There is a legend connected to Simjeoksa Temple and the “Stone Statues of Simjeokjeongsa Temple, Sancheong,” which are a Gyeongsangnam-do Tangible Cultural Heritage. According to this legend, a monk from a temple in Gangwon-do fled the area after repeated invasions. In the process of fleeing Gangwon-do, he carried 22 statues. These statues included one of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), 15 Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha), one Bodhisattva, two attendant deities, and two civil officials (one of the 22 statues was lost during the Korean War). He carried these statues in a straw basket. The monk eventually reached Sancheong, where he stopped to rest. After some time, the monk decided to visit the nearby village for a meal. Upon his return, he found that the 22 statues had disappeared. Following the clues of where the statues might be, the monk discovered that they had gathered near a cliff behind Simjeoksa Temple. Seeing this as an auspicious sign, the monk decided to build a hermitage he would call Nahanam Hermitage.
Another story about a monk and these 22 statues takes places during an especially harsh winter. During a heavy snowfall, Nahanam Hermitage became isolated. With no provisions or firewood, the lone monk endured the severe conditions. On the morning of the winter solstice, the monk found a warm bowl of red bean porridge (patjuk) and a lit fire in the kitchen to keep him warm. Confused, the monk took the porridge to the Nahan-jeon Hall at the hermitage, where he noticed traces of red bean around the lips of the statue of Seokgamoni-bul.
The following spring, and while out begging for alms in Sancheong, the monk encountered a homeowner who asked about his hermitage. The homeowner would share a curious story with the monk. The night before winter solstice, and during the bitterly cold and snowy night, a senior monk from the Nahanam Hermitage had visited the homeowner requesting both food and fire. The homeowner gave the senior monk a bowl of red bean porridge and some embers so he could immediately start a fire, when he returned to Nahanam Hermitage. Upon hearing this story, the monk realized that this miraculous event was connected to the 22 statues he had brought with him from Gangwon-do. Moved by this event, the monk devoted himself to caring for these statues for the rest of his life. This was said to have helped strengthen his faith.
These statues are now housed at neighbouring Simjeokjeongsa Temple after the destruction of Simjeoksa Temple during the Korean War. These statues are believed to date back to the early Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910).
Temple Layout
You first make your way up a long mountain road that eventually ends at Simjeoksa Temple. Up a set of stairs, you’ll come to the main temple courtyard. To the far right, and in front of the monks’ dorms, you’ll find a Beomjong-gak Pavilion that only houses a bronze bell. To the far left, you’ll find the temple’s kitchen.
Between the monks’ dorms and the temple kitchen, and on the far western side of the temple grounds, you’ll find the Daeungbo-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to the main hall are adorned in simple Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals). Stepping inside the Daeungbo-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by a triad centred, rather surprisingly, by an image of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). Typically, a Daeungbo-jeon Hall is occupied by the central image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). To the left and right of this larger central image, you’ll find statues dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) and Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). To the left of the main altar, you’ll find a Dokseong-like image of two monks. And in front of this wall mural is an older mural of an unknown monk. Hanging on the far left wall, you’ll find a larger, modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). And if you look around the walls and ceiling of the main hall, you’ll find additional murals like white cranes and hands holding various objects in their hands.
To the left of the Daeungbo-jeon Hall, and up a set of stone stairs, you’ll find the Chilseong/Sanshin-gak Hall. Entering through the right door, and underneath the signboard that’s dedicated to the Chilseong-gak Hall, you’ll find a rather long mural dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). If you look particularly closely at this mural, you’ll find a long-headed image of Bukseong (The North Star), who closes his eyes almost as though he’s in meditation. To the left of this mural, you’ll find a painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). While there is a male Sanshin seated statue out in front of the backing mural, you’ll find that there’s a female Sanshin in the mural. The reason for this is that Mt. Jirisan (1,915 m), which is where Simjeoksa Temple is situated next to, is thought to be a female mountain.
Backtracking towards the upper parking lot at Simjeoksa Temple, you’ll find the newly built Obaek Nahan-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to this shrine hall are adorned with fading murals of the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Stepping inside the Obaek Nahan-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by a triad centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) and joined on either side by statues of Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha) and Yeondeung-bul (The Past Buddha). And backing this triad are row-upon-row of five hundred Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha) statues.
How To Get There
There’s really only one practical way to get to Simjeoksa Temple and that’s by taxi. From the Sancheong Bus Terminal, the taxi ride should take about 10 minutes, or 5.2 km, and it’ll cost you around 10,000 won (one way).
If that’s too expensive of an option, you can take Bus #6 from the Sancheong Bus Terminal. You’ll need to take this bus for two stops, or seven minutes, and get off at the “Jigok-maeul – 지곡마을 하차” bus stop. However, from where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to walk 46 minutes, or nearly 2 km, some of which is up a mountain, to get to Simjoksa Temple. While it’s doable, it’s definitely not for all.
Overall Rating: 6/10
There are definitely a few highlights to Simjeoksa Temple in Sancheong, Gyeongsangnam-do like the beautiful view. In addition to its surroundings, other highlights include the female Sanshin painting inside the dual-purpose shaman shrine hall. The interior of the Daeungbo-jeon Hall is stunning as is the interior of the Obaek Nahan-jeon Hall. Overall, the entire temple grounds and shrine halls make for a peaceful little temple.
