Songunsa Temple – 송운사 (Ulju-gun, Ulsan)
Temple History
Songunsa Temple is located in the eastern foothills of Mt. Sinbulsan (1,159.3m) in Ulju-gun, Ulsan. More specifically, Songunsa Temple is located in the northern part of the Amethyst Cave Land. Songunsa Temple is a modern temple that first started to be constructed in 2010. Originally, the temple was an amethyst cave. In fact, Songunsa Temple is the only temple in Korea built within a former amethyst mining cave. According to the abbot of the temple, Hwayong, the cave has existed since Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45). Later, the caves were filled-in and abandoned. The site had been abandoned for around 40 years.
A unique feature to Songunsa Temple, as if the temple needed anymore, is that there are hundreds of statues dedicated to Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) inside the Muryangsu-jeon Hall. These statues are made from pure soil and the ashes of the dead. The soil and ashes are then heated up to 1,800°C and transformed into the image of Amita-bul. The abbot helped create this process out of a concern for modern burial practices. This way, he hoped, it would help solve the issues related to grave maintenance and ancestral rites in Korea.
Temple Layout
From the temple parking lot, you’ll get your first taste of the temple grounds, when you’re greeted by the artificial waterfall that flows from the pock-marked exterior of the network of caves that form Songunsa Temple. In fact, you can cross one of two bridges that have images of dragons on them to gain access to one of the abandoned amethyst caves at the temple.
Back on the main pathway, and heading up to the main temple courtyard, you’ll be greeted by a line of three metre tall statues dedicated to the Sibiji-shin (The Twelve Spirit Generals). Now having entered the main temple courtyard, you’ll find a set of winding stairs that lead towards a look-out. This look-out looks out towards the mountains off in the distance and the Amethyst Cave Land below. To the left of these stairs, you’ll find an opening that allows you access to the maze of tunnels that lead to various shrine halls inside the caves.
Before entering the caves, have a look around the face of the pock-marked mountain. You’ll find images of the Buddha’s head, Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion), a marble Bodhidharma statue, and stylized images of the Four Heavenly Kings in front of the entry to the tunnel that leads towards the Daeung-jeon Hall inside the caves.
Now having entered the caves, you’ll find a stone platform in an O-shaped hollow. On top of this stone platform is a standing image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), who appears to have lost a hand. Additionally, its sun-designed nimbus is quite badly beaten up, too. A little beyond this, and next to a diminutive three-story pagoda, you’ll find a tunnel that leads towards a cave. Housed inside this cave is the Muryangsu-jeon Hall. As you first enter the Muryangsu-jeon Hall, you’ll notice rows of miniature Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) statues. What’s interesting about these statues is that Gwanseeum-bosal holds a baby in her arms. To the left, you’ll find the main altar inside the Muryangsu-jeon Hall. All alone on the main altar is a statue dedicated to Amita-bul. A little further inside the cave, you’ll find the aforementioned statues of the earthly remains of individuals shaped like Amita-bul.
Back down the tunnel, and now heading towards the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find that the main hall occupies the interior of a large twenty metre cave. The main altar is occupied by a central image dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). To the left of the main altar, you’ll find a side-altar dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). And to the right of the main altar, you’ll find a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
Going past the Daeung-jeon Hall, and down some stairs, you’ll next come to a collection of shrine halls housed inside large to medium sized caves. Out in front of the Daeung-jeon Hall is the Gwaneum-jeon Hall. Housed all alone on the main altar is a statue dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). Overhead are a pair of pink, paper lanterns.
Further along, and you’ll next come to a thousand-armed statue of Gwanseeum-bosal. This large central image is joined on either side by smaller incarnations of the same Bodhisattva statue. To the left of this multi-armed and headed statue is an image dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). The statue of the Lonely Saint holds a long, golden staff in its left hand, while it sports a pair of long, white eyebrows, which highlight the alleged age of Dokseong.
To the left of Dokseong, and up a set of stairs, you’ll find a large, golden statue dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King). Yongwang sits upon a golden throne, and he’s surrounded by miniature statues of himself. And on the far right wall, you’ll find even more smaller statues of various Buddhas and Bodhisattvas. Yongwang looks out towards the Sanshin-gak Hall. The statue dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) looks back at Yongwang. Sanshin is joined by an orange tiger. And flying overhead are a pair of white cranes.
The final thing in this labyrinth of caves is a large collection of pooling water, where you’ll find a pair of dragons peering out from the lip of the pool. One of these dragons is yellow, while the other is blue. If you look inside the clear pool of water, you’ll find the dragons’ bodies immersed in the cool, clear water. Also shimmering beneath the surface of the water is a large collection of coins that people have tossed while also making a wish.
Standing back in the main temple courtyard, and looking up, you’ll find that there’s an upper courtyard at Songunsa Temple, as well. Making your way to the upper courtyard, you’ll pass by a miniature replica of Dabo-tap Pagoda, as well as a row of golden Bodhidharma statues. The first shrine hall in this area is a Sanshin-gak Hall. Housed inside a cave in the upper courtyard, you’ll find a stone statue dedicated to the Mountain Spirit. Outside the Sanshin-gak Hall, you’ll find a ferocious stone statue of a tiger.
Having exited the upper Sanshin-gak Hall, you’ll get great views of the main temple courtyard below. A little further up, and you’ll see a large golden statue dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise). There are two golden doors on either side of this large statue. Both are connected inside by a large network of caves. These caves include a Myeongbu-jeon Hall through the left door, while the right door houses a Gwaneum-jeon Hall. Both halls are filled with numerous rows of various Buddhas and Bodhisattvas. And the ceilings of the caves have a mirror-like surface to them, which only makes the interior of these shrine halls that much more golden.
How To Get There
There’s really no easy way to get to Songunsa Temple using public transportation. However, if this is the only option, you can take the bus that reads “Ulju 84 – 울주 84” on it from the Eonyang Bus Terminal. You’ll need to take this bus for 5 stops and get off at the “Jungnam Chodeung hakgyo – 중남초등학 하차” bus stop. In total, the bus ride should take about 10 minutes. From where the bus drops you off, and this is where it gets tough, you’ll need to head west and then north for 2.6 km to get to Songunsa Temple and the Amethyst Cave Land. In total, the 2.6 km hike should take about 50 minutes.
You can also catch a taxi from the Eonyang Bus Terminal. The taxi ride should take about 12 minutes, or 6.1 km, and it’ll cost you around 7,200 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 8/10
There’s a lot to love and appreciate about Songunsa Temple even though it’s quite new. The maze-like interior of the caves that house all the shrine halls is rather impressive including the pool of water with dragons, the interior of the Daeung-jeon Hall, as well as all the other shrines along the way. There’s a lot of Buddhist iconography throughout the main temple courtyard, as well as a pair of shrine halls in the upper courtyard. There aren’t a lot of cave temples in Korea. The only other ones that come to mind are Golgulsa Temple in Gyeongju, Yeoyeojeongsa Temple in Miryang, Gyeongsangnam-do, and Ilbungsa Temple in Uiryeong, Gyeongsangnam-do. In addition to this highly original temple; and especially if you have kids, you can also enjoy the neighbouring Amethyst Cave Land.
