Sudeoksa Temple – 수덕사 (Yesan, Chungcheongnam-do)

Temple History
Sudeoksa Temple is located on Mt. Deoksungsan (495.2 m) in Yesan, Chungcheongnam-do. The name of the temple means “Practicing Virtue Temple” in English. There is some ambiguity as to when Sudeoksa Temple was exactly built. There are two differing accounts as to when it was first built. The first states that the temple was established by the Buddhist monk Sungje during the Baekje Kingdom (18 B.C. – 660 A.D.). during the reign of King Wideok of Baekje (r.554-598). And according to a different account, the temple was founded in 599 A.D. by the monk Jimyeong. There is recorded proof that the monk Hyehyeon (570-627 A.D.) taught at Sudeoksa Temple in 601 A.D., so it would make sense that the temple was established before this date. Furthermore, there have been numerous Baekje-era roof tiles discovered at the temple, as well. It was then later renovated by the great monk Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.).
Either way, it’s believed that Naong (1320-76) repaired the temple during the reign of King Gongmin of Goryeo (r.1351-74). Like Buseoksa Temple, Sudeoksa Temple was one of the very few temples on the Korean peninsula to remain unscathed during the extremely destructive Imjin War (1592-98). As a result of its miraculous ability to avoid destruction at the hands of the Japanese, Sudeoksa Temple is home to the oldest wooden structure in Korea. The Daeung-jeon main hall dates back to 1308. This hall, for obvious reasons, is a national treasure. Throughout the years, Sudeoksa Temple has undergone numerous renovations and rebuilds like in 1528, 1751, 1770, and 1803.
During the waning years of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), the monk Gyeongheo-seonsa (1849-1912) called Sudeoksa Temple home. During this time, he taught the Seon tradition to his disciples. This tradition had been discontinued during the 1880’s. During this time, Gyeongheo taught numerous disciples like Suwol, Hyewol, Hanam, and Mangong. While others would travel the Korean peninsula and even parts of China, Mangong (1871-1946) remained at Sudeoksa Temple and continued the Seon teachings, cultivating numerous outstanding disciples. By doing this, not only did Mangong allow for the firm establishment of Seon Buddhist teachings in Korea, but he did this from Sudeoksa Temple, helping to make it a foundational temple for modern Korean Buddhist teachings. Currently, Sudeoksa Temple is not only the 7th headquarter for the Jogye Order (the largest Buddhist order in Korea), but it’s one of five training complexes for the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism.
In total, Sudeoksa Temple is home to a national treasure, two Korean treasures, and a National Registered Cultural Heritage stupa. Sudeoksa Temple is also home to the very popular Temple Stay program.
Temple Legends
There are a couple of legends connected to Sudeoksa Temple that are somewhat similar. In the first, there once was a young nobleman named Sudeok who lived in Hongju Village. One day, Sudeok decided to go hunting. During his hunt, and from a distance, Sudeok saw a beautiful maiden. Sudeok fell in love at first sight. Upon returning home, Sudeok started to make inquiries about this beautiful maiden. Sudeok would discover that the woman was named Deoksung Nangja. She was a woman who lived alone in the neighouring village. Eventually, Sudeok would propose marriage to Deoksung Nangja multiple times; however, he was repeatedly rebuffed.
Eventually, and because of Sudeok’s persistent proposals, Deoksung Nangja agreed; however, she agreed upon one condition – he had to build a temple near her home. Excited and overjoyed, Sudeok started construction on the temple immediately. However, because he was filled with selfish desires, the temple burned down the moment it was completed. To help in the reconstruction of the temple, Sudeok purified his body before trying again. However, lingering thoughts of Deoksung Nangja caused yet another fire, which prevented the new temple from being completed. Upon his third attempt, Sudeok solely focused on the Buddha. As a result, he was finally able to complete the construction of the temple without a fire.
After the construction of the temple, Deoksung Nangja married Sudeok; however, she refused to let him touch her. Unable to accept this, Sudeok forcibly embraced her. It was at this moment that a thunderous noise occurred; and in the process, Deoksung Nangja vanished. All that was left behind of her was a single white sock, or “beoseon” in Korean. This spot would turn into a rock. And beside it, there bloomed a white flower shaped like a sock.
It was later revealed that Deoksung Nangja was an incarnation of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). From that time forward, the temple was named Sudeoksa Temple after Sudeok. And the mountain where Sudeoksa Temple is located is called Mt. Deoksungsan after Deoksung Nangja the woman from the temple legend.

There is a second similar legend connected to Sudeoksa Temple, as well. Sudeoksa Temple was originally built during the Baekje Kingdom (18 B.C. – 660 A.D.); however, it eventually fell into disrepair by Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.). As a result, a large-scale reconstruction was required. But at this time the monks had a hard time securing the necessary funds for the reconstruction of Sudeoksa Temple.
One day, a mysterious young woman arrived at the temple and volunteered to serve as the temple’s cook to help support the reconstruction efforts. This woman was extraordinarily beautiful. She was called Lady Sudeok, and word of her beauty spread far and wide. Crowds of people flocked to Sudeoksa Temple to catch a simple glance at her. This transformed Sudeoksa Temple from a once-quiet temple into a crowded site.
Among her many admirers was a man named Jeonghye, who was the son of a wealthy noble that was a high-ranking minister of Silla. Jeonghye was so captured by her beauty that he proposed marriage to Lady Sudeok. Lady Sudeok answered that she would accept this proposal, but only after the temple’s reconstruction was successfully completed.
Motivated by love, Jeonghye donated his entire wealth to the project. This helped the temple be reconstructed in three years instead of the estimated ten. When the temple was finally completed, Jeonghye attended the dedication ceremony.
After the temple was completed, Jeonghye pressed Lady Sudeok to marry him as promised. She replied “Please grant me a moment to change out of these clothes soiled with dishwater.”
Stepping into an adjoining room, she attempted to disappear. Sensing this, Jeonghye rushed into the room, where Lady Sudeok was trying to escape. Startled, he reached out to grab her; but at that very moment, a nearby rock split open. The woman vanished, leaving behind only a single white sock, which is known as a “beoseon” in Korean. Suddenly, both the woman and the door disappeared, and in its place stood a large, cracked rock.
Since then, and during spring, a mysterious flower resembling a white sock has bloomed in the crevice of the rock. People eventually came to believe that Lady Sudeok was in fact an incarnation of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). And since her name was Lady Sudeok, they decided to honour her by naming the temple Sudeoksa Temple. Also, and after witnessing this miraculous event, Jeonghye felt the impermanence of life. He would eventually renounce the world, climb along a mountain ridge, and build a temple that would be called Jeonghyesa Temple.
Temple Layout
You’ll first approach Sudeoksa Temple up a corridor of restaurants and stores at the village that’s sprung up around the temple. Past the ticket booth, you’ll first come to the four pillared Iljumun Gate. Further up the path, and you’ll encounter the Geumgangmun Gate, or “Diamond Gate” in English. The exterior walls to this gate are painted with guardians, and the interior houses two muscular statues of Vajra Warriors. To the rear of this gate are two large painted images of Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom), who is riding a blue lion; and Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power), who is riding a white, multi-tusked, elephant.
Thirty more metres up the trail, and you’ll next come to the wide and boxy Sacheonwangmun Gate. Inside this gate are housed four of the fiercest Heavenly Kings that you’ll probably find at any Buddhist temple in Korea. Still on this path, but before the expansive Hwanghajeong-ru Pavilion, you’ll spot a number of pagodas that include an elephant based lantern, a seven-story pagoda, and the stupa for the famed monk, Mangong (1871-1946). This stupa is Korean National Registered Cultural Heritage #473.
Making your way under the Hwanghajeong-ru Pavilion, and climbing the rather steep set of stone stairs, you’ll finally enter the temple’s main courtyard. Formerly, there was a three-story stone pagoda that stood in the lower part of the main temple courtyard. This pagoda was known as the Geumgang-bo Pagoda, and it contained three sari (crystallized remains) of the Buddha, Seokgamoni-bul. However, this pagoda that was first constructed in 2000 is no longer there. It’s unclear, however, where the Sri Lankan sari housed inside this pagoda now reside. Now open, this lower courtyard only houses the Beopgo-gak Pavilion to your right and the Beopjong-gak Pavilion to your left. Housed inside the Beopgo-gak Pavilion is a beopgo (dharma drum), the mokeo (wooden fish drum), and the unpan (the cloud plate drum). And housed inside the Beopjong-gak Pavilion is a beautiful beomjong (brahma bell). All four Buddhist percussion instruments are masterfully executed.
A little further, and closer to the Daeung-jeon Hall, is another pagoda. This historic pagoda stands three stories and is believed to date back to the early Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). Behind this historic pagoda is the equally historic Daeung-jeon Hall. This hall is not only National Treasure #49, but it’s also the oldest dated wooden structure in Korea. The main hall is similar in design to the Geukrak-jeon Hall at Bongjeongsa Temple in Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do and the Muryangsu-jeon Hall at Buseoksa Temple in Yeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do. The exterior walls to this hall that date back to 1308 are rather unassuming. However, housed inside the main hall, and resting on the main altar, is a triad of statues centred by Seokgamoni-bul. This statue is joined on either side by Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise) and Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). The statues date back to the early part of the 17th century, and the altar that the statues rest upon is as old as the Daeung-jeon Hall itself. They are, collectively, Korean Treasure #1381. There are numerous Goryeo Dynasty paintings spread throughout the interior of this historic hall.
To the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall stands the temple’s Myeongbu-jeon Hall. Housed inside this hall is a green haired seated statue of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). He’s surrounded on both sides by beautiful wooden reliefs of the Siwang (Ten Kings of the Underworld). And to the left of the main hall is the Samseong-gak Hall. Formerly, this was the Gwaneum-jeon Hall. Out in front of the Samseong-gak Hall is a statue dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). And housed inside the Samseong-gak Hall are three beautiful renderings of the three most popular shaman deities in Korean Buddhism: Chilseong (The Seven Stars), Dokseong (The Lonely Saint), and Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit).
How To Get There
There are a few ways to get to Sudeoksa Temple. From Seoul, you’ll first need to get to the Nambu Bus Terminal and board a bus bound for Sudeoksa Temple. The bus ride lasts about two and half hours and costs around 8,000 won. From anywhere else in the country, you’ll first need to get to Yesan Intercity Bus Terminal. From there, you can take a rural bus to Sudeoksa Temple. There are a variety of buses that can take you to the temple from the terminal. These buses will take about an hour and forty minutes to get to Sudeoksa Temple.
Overall Rating: 9/10
Sudeoksa Temple is beautifully situated in northern Chungcheongnam-do Province. The temple lies just beneath the peak of Mt. Deoksungsan. With the oldest wooden structure in Korea housed at the temple, as well as historic Korean Treasures housed inside this amazing hall, this is reason enough to visit Sudeoksa Temple. But besides the main hall, there are the gates, the Gwaneum-jeon Hall, and the collection of pagodas and stupas, which should be enough to pique your wanderlust.













