Taeguksa Temple – 태국사 (Taean, Chungcheongnam-do)
Temple History
Taeguksa Temple is located in western Taean, Chungcheongnam-do. In fact, the temple is the most westerly Buddhist temple in Korea. Taeguksa Temple is situated inside Anheungjin-seong Fortress and overlooks the Yellow Sea. It’s unclear when the temple was first founded, but it’s believed to have been first founded by the monk Hyemyeong during the reign of King Mu of Baekje (r. 600-641 A.D.).
Due to the temple’s location, it’s believed that Taeguksa Temple might have been used as a military base during the Baekje Kingdom (18 B.C.–660 A.D.). The temple was also known for housing a shrine dedicated to Dangun, who is the legendary founder of Korea. Taeguksa Temple also served as a place where diplomats and merchants who were passing through the nearby Anheung Port, which was a major trading hub during the Baekje Kingdom, would come to pray for safe voyages.
Though Taeguksa Temple was once a large temple, it was destroyed by fire after Anheungjin-seong Fortress was abandoned in 1895. In 1982, a small house resembling a private residence was built on the former temple site. Eventually, the temple was restored, and it would be named Taeguksa Temple, once more. Currently, the temple consists of only a couple of shrine halls, the former residence, and the current monks’ dorms.
Temple Legend
There are a couple of legends connected to the founding of Taeguksa Temple that include the monk Hyemyeong receiving a divine revelation from an old man in a dream.
Another even more fascinating legend could date back to the reign of King Sejong the Great (r. 1418-1450). It’s a bit sketchy as to when this legend actually occurred. At this time, during the reign of King Sejong, the governor of Taean had a dream in which he was instructed to immediately retrieve a box floating by the shore of Anheung Port. Waking up uncertain, the governor went to the beach early in the morning, and just like in his dream, he found a box lying in the water. There was a cloth wrapped around a golden Buddha statue inside the box. The writing on the box indicated that it was from Thailand. Astonished, the governor promptly reported his findings to the king; who, in turn, sent a monk to the site where the box had been located. Following the king’s orders, the monk chose a location to build a temple. He would name the temple Taeguksa Temple, which literally means “Thailand Temple” in English. The golden Buddha was enshrined inside the newly built temple shrine hall. However, the whereabouts of this golden Buddha is no longer known.
Temple Layout
You make your way up a winding road, until you eventually come to the highest point of the fortress, which also just so happens to be where the temple and the temple parking lot are located. From where you park, and looking out towards the eastern portion of the fortress, you’ll see lush forests below. And if you’re especially lucky, you’ll see a few deer roaming about.
As for the temple itself, there are four structures at Taeguksa Temple. The first, and probably the most important visitors, is the Wontong-jeon Hall. This is the only structure at the temple that visitors can explore. The exterior walls are adorned with murals of the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals), as well as a Banya Yongseon-do (Dragon Ship of Wisdom Mural). Stepping inside the main hall, you’ll find a solitary image of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) on the main altar. To the right of the main altar, you’ll find an older mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), as well as an equally older mural dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). To the left of the main altar, on the other hand, you’ll find a larger mural dedicated Yongwang (The Dragon King) and an older Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). It’s next to the Shinjung Taenghwa that you’ll find a window that looks out on the Yellow Sea, reminiscent of the window inside the Daeung-jeon Hall at Tongdosa Temple that looks out onto the Geumgang Gyedan (Diamond Altar).
The off-limit structures at Taeguksa Temple are the monks’ dorms to the left of the Wontong-jeon Hall and a locked shrine hall to the right of the main hall. To the rear of the Wontong-jeon Hall is the former small private residence built in 1982, which is now abandoned.
Beyond this former residence, and up a trail, you’ll find a rocky knoll that has a beautiful view of the Yellow Sea off in the distance. This location, and subsequent view, is especially beautiful during a sunset.
How To Get There
From the Taean Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus #100 to get to Taeguksa Temple. The bus ride should take about 60 minutes over 33 stops, and you’ll need to get off at the “Anheung – 안흥 하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to walk east for about 700 metres uphill, in parts, to get to Taeguksa Temple. The walk should take about 15 to 20 minutes.
Overall Rating: 6.5/10
The obvious main highlight to Taeguksa Temple are the views of the Yellow Sea off in the distance. It doesn’t hurt that the temple is housed inside a fortress that has forests filled with deer. In addition to all of this natural beauty, the shaman murals inside the Wontong-jeon Hall, as well as the beautifully crowned image of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) are stunning, too. The only thing that takes away from the temple is its rather small size.
