Tongdosa Temple Changnyeong Propagation Center – 통도사 창녕포교당 (Changnyeong, Gyeongsangnam-do)
Temple History
The Tongdosa Temple Changnyeong Propagation Center is located in the eastern part of Changnyeong, Gyeongsangnam-do. It’s believed that the propagation center is located on the site of the former Inwangsa Temple, which was a prominent temple that existed during the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.).
As for the current Tongdosa Temple Changnyeong Propagation Center and its founding, a plaque hanging above the door to an auxiliary building has an inscription on it that reads “Buchal Tongdosa Bonmalsa Changnyeong Pogyo-dang Creation Merit.” This inscription also details how on July 7, 1939, the monk Chundam founded the missionary temple with the goal of propagating the “Inwang-gyeong,” which is known as the “Humane King Sutra” in English. The monk Chundam founded the temple under the patronage of Ha Jun-seok, who was a prominent landowner in Changnyeong. It was also supported by Ha’s second son, Ha jae-gu, who had served as the governor of Gonyang. The temple was established as part of his vow to have a son.
According to the records of traditional temples in Changnyeong, it’s noted that the Tongdosa Temple Changnyeong Propagation Center was first established in 1920. The text also records that during the Silla Dynasty that there was a large temple called Inwangsa Temple, which was the predecessor to the current propagation center. However, Inwangsa Temple was destroyed during the Imjin War (1592-98).
The current state of the propagation center, and according to local residents, was believed to have been built as a part of a vow made by Kim Seon-myeonghwa and her son-in-law, Ha Jun-seok. Together, they hoped for a son. The son that was eventually born to Ha Jun-seok and his wife, Yeongdal, would donate a bell to the temple, which still exists to this day at the temple. It has the inscription “Ha Yeongdal” written on it. Based upon this history, and the lives of these people, it seems most likely that the temple was in fact established in 1939.
In 1978, when the monk Cheongun was residing at the Tongdosa Temple Changnyeong Propagation Center, he brought the wooden statue of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) with him. This is the “Wooden Seated Sakyamuni Buddha at Changnyeong Propagation Center of Tongdosa Temple, Yangsan.” Formerly, this statue had been housed inside the Palsang-jeon Hall at Gwanryongsa Temple in Changnyeong. However, when the Palsang-jeon Hall was destroyed during the Korean War (1950-53), the statue was rescued and eventually found a home at its current location in the Changnyeong Propagation Center.
In addition to the “Wooden Seated Sakyamuni Buddha at Changnyeong Propagation Center of Tongdosa Temple, Yangsan,” which is Gyeongsangnam-do Tangible Cultural Heritage #374, the Tongdosa Temple Changnyeong Propagation Center is also a Jeokmyeol-bogung, or “Silent Nirvana Treasure Palace” in English. A Jeokmyeol-bogung is a location that contains the relics of the Buddha, Seokgamoni-bul, that was built by Jajang-yulsa (590-658 A.D.). Perhaps because of the name of the propagation center, the temple received a sari (crystalized remains) from Tongdosa Temple in Yangsan, Gyeongsangnam-do. The stone shrine to the rear of the main hall at the Changnyeong Propagation Center is a smaller version of the Geumgang Gyedan at the original Tongdosa Temple in Yangsan.
The Tongdosa Temple Changnyeong Propagation Center is one of the 982 traditional temples in Korea.
Temple Layout
You first approach the Tongdosa Temple Changnyeong Propagation Center up a back alley along a minor side street. Eventually, you’ll come to an elevated entry gate with images of Heng and Ha painted on the front doors of the gate.
Having passed through this entry gate, you’ll enter into the lower courtyard at the propagation center. To the left is the center’s bathroom and administrative office. And to the right, you’ll find the dorms and kitchen facilities. There are a set of stairs that lead up to the upper courtyard at the temple. Book-ending these stairs are a pair of stone lanterns. And as you step inside the upper courtyard, you’ll be greeted by a standing stone statue dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha).
Just to the left of this statue is the temple’s Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in understated dancheong colours. As you step inside the Samseong-gak Hall, and on the far right wall, you’ll find a modern painting dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). In this painting, and floating up in the clouds, there appears to be an image of Seokgamoni-bul. And to Dokseong’s side, you’ll find a book-carrying dongja (attendant). The central image inside the shaman shrine hall is an older mural dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). And on the far left wall, you’ll find an old painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit).
This painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) dates back to April 1897, and it was created by the Buddhist monk-painter Taeil. Taeil was active in the Gyeongsangnam-do region, including Hapcheon, Namhae, and Changnyeong, in the late 19th century. Early in his career, he worked under the guidance of the monk-painter Gijeon. Later, Taeil would be influenced by the painting style of the monk-painter Eungsang and worked alongside the monk-painter Bongui. Bongui would become acquainted with Taeil while creating the Chilseong-do paintings for Anyangam Hermitage at Tongdosa Temple in Yangsan, Gyeongsangnam-do in 1866. The only extant work created by Taeil is the Sanshin-do from 1897 at the Tongdosa Temple Changnyeong Propagation Center.
As for the Sanshin-do by Taeil, it was originally created as part of a restoration project at Doseongam Hermitage on Mt. Hwawangsan. After completing this project, and the painting, Taeil worked on Buddhist paintings at Yongmunsa Temple in Namhae. Additionally, an undated Sanshin painting at Hongjeam Hermitage at Haeinsa Temple shows similarities to the one housed in the propagation center. In this painting at the propagation center, Sanshin is curled up next to a tiger. With his right hand, he strokes the back of the tiger, while his left hand holds a fan. The pine trees, clouds, sun, and flowers in the background are rendered in a folk style of painting. Overall, it’s a stunning shaman painting.
Behind the Samseong-gak Hall, and to the right, you’ll find the main hall, which is called a Jeokmyeol-bogung. On either side of the signboard with the name of the main hall on it, you’ll find two intimidating dragons. And surrounding the exterior walls, you’ll find two fading sets of images. The upper murals are from the Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals), while the lower murals are from the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals).
Stepping inside the main hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by a triad of statues. And instead of being backed by a large mural (taenghwa), it’s backed by an open window much like the one found at Tongdosa Temple in Yangsan, Gyeongsangnam-do. However, unlike the main altar inside the Daeung-jeon Hall in Yangsan, this main altar has a triad of statues. In the centre rests an image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This is the “Wooden Seated Sakyamuni Buddha at Changnyeong Propagation Center of Tongdosa Temple, Yangsan,” which is the sole provincial treasure at the temple. This image of the Buddha was first made in 1730, and it was originally enshrined at Gwanryongsa Temple in Changnyeong. In 1950, it was moved to its current location for safe-keeping, and it’s just never returned. The right hand reaches down towards the ground, while the left hand rests on its lap. This mudra (ritualized hand gesture) indicates the defeat of worldly desires and the attainment of enlightenment. The three neck folds represent the “three destinies” of affliction, actions, and suffering. Additionally, the robe it wears covers both of its shoulders. Surrounding the window that backs this triad are dozens of smaller statues dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul.
Also taking up residence inside the main hall is an older Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural), as well as a Reclining Buddha statue backed by a painting dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). The final thing to see inside the main hall is a shrine dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). At this shrine, you’ll find a golden hooded image of the Bodhisattva of the Afterlife that’s backed by a painting of Jijang-bosal being surrounded by the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld).
The final thing that you can see at the temple is located to the rear of the main hall. This is a miniature version of the Geumgang Gyedan at Tongdosa Temple in Yangsan. Also, and unlike the Geumgang Gyedan in Yangsan, you can actually enter this shrine that houses the partial earthly remains, sari (crystalized remains), of the Buddha, Seokgamoni-bul. In fact, the stone lotus bud that houses the sari is a replica of the original found at Tongdosa Temple, as well.
How To Get There
From the Changnyeong Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to trek a few metres north, until you come to “Myeongdeok-ro – 명덕로” street. You’ll need to head down this street for about 1.2 km, until you head south down “Cheokgyeongbi-ro – 척경비로” street. Head down this road for about 300 metres, until it takes a slight jaunt to the east down “Shindang 2-gil – 신당 2길” road. You’ll see the temple on your left. In total, the walk should take 1.5 km, or 22 minutes.
And if you’d rather take a taxi, you can take one from the bus terminal to get to the temple. It’ll take 5 minutes, or 1.7 km, and it cost around 5,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 6/10
There are a few highlights at this lesser known, but long named, temple in Changnyeong. The first is the Sanshin painting from 1897. It’s rare to be able to see a painting this old still on display for the public and not housed inside some sort of municipal museum. In addition to this shaman painting, the miniature Geumgang Gyedan in back of the main hall has a nice surprise after seeing it through the glass window inside the main hall. And finally, the historic “Wooden Seated Sakyamuni Buddha at Changnyeong Propagation Center of Tongdosa Temple, Yangsan” is quite stunning, as well.
