Undaeam Hermitage – 운대암 (Namhae, Gyeongsangnam-do)

Hermitage History

Undaeam Hermitage is located to the north of Mt. Daebangsan (469.8 m) in northeastern Namhae, Gyeongsangnam-do near the Okcheon-suwonji Reservoir. Undaeam Hermitage was originally founded as Mangyeongam Hermitage during the early Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). Over time, it gained renown for its ability to grant wishes, where people believed that prayers offered in the morning would be answered by the evening.

During the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), the hermitage was renamed Undaeam Hermitage. For some time during the early Joseon Dynasty, Undaeam Hermitage was left abandoned after the abbot of the temple died after a fall. It wasn’t until the Imjin War (1592-98) that the temple was relocated to its current site and reopened.

Much later, and during the 1990s, the temple underwent a major reconstruction. After a year of construction, the Muryangsu-jeon Hall and the Sanshin-gak Hall were completed in December 1990. Also, Undaeam Hermitage is one of the 982 traditional temples in Korea.

There are three provincial treasures from Undaeam Hermitage. It’s unclear where they are currently, as they are not in any of the shrine halls. As for the provincial treasures, they are the “Jijang-bosal and Ten Kings Buddhist Painting at Undaeam Temple, Namhae,” the “Amita-bul Buddha Scroll Painting at Undaeam Hermitage, Namhae,” and the “Jeseok-bul and Guardian Deities Scroll Painting at Undaeam Hermitage, Namhae.” They are all Gyeongsangnam-do Cultural Heritage Materials.

Hermitage Layout

You first approach Undaeam Hermitage up a long and winding road that’s quite narrow in parts. Eventually, you’ll arrive at the hermitage from the east and be welcomed by the monks’ dorms, administrative office, and kitchen.

Just beyond this cluster of buildings, you’ll find the two-story entry gate. The first story acts as the Cheonwangmun Gate, while the second story acts as the Beomjong-gak Pavilion. The front side of the first story is adorned with murals dedicated to the Geumgang-yeoksa (Vajra Warriors), while the backside of the first story is adorned with a pair of paintings. The first is dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife), while the other is dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). And the sides of the structure are adorned with even more guardians. Up near where the first story becomes the second story of the structure, you’ll find a smaller sized collection of Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). As for the second story, it houses a large bronze bell.

To the left of this two-in-one entry gate, and on the hillside, you’ll find an ancient stupa. And out in front of the entry gate, you’ll find the glimmering Okcheon-suwonji Reservoir, which is especially beautiful in the morning on a sunny day.

Stepping through the Cheonwangmun Gate/Beomjong-gak Pavilion, you’ll find the elevated Muryangsu-jeon Hall, which is fronted by a pair of stone lanterns. To the immediate left, and before mounting the stairs up to the main hall, you’ll find another building that acts as the monks’ dorms.

Now climbing the stairs up to the Muryangsu-jeon Hall, you’ll find that exterior walls are adorned in simple Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Stepping inside the main hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by a central image of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). This central image is then flanked on either side by a green haired image of Jijang-bosal and a regally crowned image of Gwanseeum-bosal. To the right of the main altar, and hanging on the far right wall, you’ll find a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). To the immediate left of the main altar, you’ll find a modern mural dedicated to Jijang-bosal. And hanging on the far left wall, you’ll find two additional murals. One is a mural dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars), which appears to have been created by the same artist as the one that painted the accompanying Shinjung Taenghwa mural. And the final mural appears to be a replica of the historic “Jijang-bosal and Ten Kings Buddhist Painting at Undaeam Temple, Namhae.”

To the left of the Muryangsu-jeon Hall, you’ll find what appears to be a Nahan-jeon Hall. When I visited, it was locked. However, the exterior is adorned with murals dedicated to the Bodhidharma, Podae-hwasang (The Hempen Bag), the moktak legend, and Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.) and Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.).

The final shrine hall that visitors can explore at Undaeam Hermitage is the Sanshin-gak Hall to the right rear of the Muryangsu-jeon Hall. It’s situated up a long set of brown, wooden stairs. The exterior walls to the shaman shrine hall are adorned in simple dancheong colours. Stepping inside the shrine hall, you’ll find a rather traditional painting of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) inside.

How To Get There

There’s no easy way to get to Undaeam Hermitage using public transportation. It would take a couple of buses, a long hike, and a couple of hours in total to get to the hermitage. So the easiest way, outside of owning your own mode of transportation, is to take a taxi from the Namhae Intercity Bus Terminal. However, it won’t be cheap. It’ll take 25 minutes, or 21 km, and it’ll cost around 34,000 won (one way).

Overall Rating: 5.5/10

There are a few highlights at Undaeam Hermitage like the sparkling reservoir in front of the hermitage grounds, the two-in-one entry gate with its beautiful paintings, as well as the interior of the Muryangsu-jeon Hall like the modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). Overall, Undaeam Hermitage is beautifully situated with some nice Buddhist artwork.