Wonhyosa Temple – 원효사 (Buk-gu, Gwangju)
Temple History
Wonhyosa Temple in Buk-gu, Gwangju is located to the northwest of Mt. Mudeungsan (1,186 m), and it looks out towards Wonhyo-bong Peak (561 m). The temple is said to have been first founded by Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.); however, the exact date of the founding of the temple is unknown.
According to the “Wonhyoam Reconstruction Record,” which can be found in the “Historical Materials of Joseon Temples” that was published in 1847, Wonhyo-daesa built a small hermitage in a scenic location where the mountains were purple and the water clear. He named this hermitage Wonhyoam Hermitage. It’s said to have been founded during the reign of King Jijeung of Silla (r. 540–576 A.D.) or King Beopheung of Silla (r. 514–540 A.D.). However, both seem unlikely, as Wonhyo-daesa had yet to be born.
However, according to the “Gwangju County History,” which was published in 1934 during Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45), it claimed that the temple was first founded during the reign of King Heungdeok of Silla (r. 826–836 A.D.). This is at least a bit more plausible, as Wonhyo-daesa could have practiced at this location and then another monk founded the temple in Wonhyo-daesa’s honour.
According to yet another theory, Wonhyosa Temple was first founded during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392) during the reign of King Chungsuk of Goryeo (r. 1313–1330, 1332–1339) by a monk that followed the teachings of the Hwaeom sect (Hwaeom-jong). This monk did it out of admiration for Wonhyo-daesa.
It’s believed that Wonhyosa Temple functioned as a major centre for Hwaeom Buddhist studies during the Goryeo Dynasty. It’s said that the temple regained prominence during the regency of Queen Munjeong (regency 1545 – 5 May 1565). The temple served as a residence for the monk Yeonggyu (d. 1592), who was a monk-general during the Imjin War. During the Imjin War (1592-98), Wonhyosa Temple was destroyed by fire in 1597. However, by 1639, and according to the “Dongguk Yeoji Seungnam,” under the Gwangsan-hyeon section, Wonhyosa Temple is recorded as being in existence, even after the temple abolishment policies of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). The temple would be rebuilt and renovated in 1609, 1636-37, 1639, 1685, 1789, 1802, 1831, and 1847.
Then in 1894, and according to an inscription on a shrine hall beam, it was recorded that the monk Haksan appealed to the local government for funds to help rebuild the temple. For these efforts, he received a donation of 100 gold coins, as well as support from influential local residents.
In 1925, Choe Namseon (1890-1957), who was a prominent scholar and independence activist, visited Wonhyosa Temple. In his book “The Pilgrimage in Search of Spring,” he wrote this about Wonhyosa Temple:
“The Dharma Hall and temple rituals exude the grandeur of a well-established monastery. The principal Buddha statue of Shakyamuni [Seokgamoni-bul, the Historical Buddha] is awe-inspiring. The massive Dharma drum, placed on a lion’s back, is a unique sight. In Yeongja-jeon Hall, to the right of the main hall, portraits of monks from Bodhidharma to Wonhyo, Cheongheo [Seosan-daesa, 1520-1604], and Seowol are displayed. A special portrait of Wonhyo, transferred from Seobongsa Temple in Damyang in 1774 (50th year of King Yeongjo), is also enshrined. The temple includes a Nahan-jeon Hall, a Myeongbu-jeon Hall, a Seon meditation room, and a Chilseong-gak Hall. Numerous Buddha statues testify to Wonhyosa Temple’s long-standing status as a prominent temple since its founding by Wonhyo.”
Most of the buildings at Wonhyosa Temple were destroyed by fire during the Korean War (1950-53) in 1950. After the war, local devotees contributed to the reconstruction of the temple. Between 1954-60, the temple was rebuilt on a smaller scale. During this rebuild, several old temple site artifacts were unearthed at Wonhyosa Temple. This included six gilt-bronze Buddha statues from the Three Kingdoms Period (18 B.C. – 660 A.D.), earthenware and roof tiles from the Baekje Kingdom (18 B.C. – 660 A.D.), six more gilt bronze Buddha statues from Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.), a cast iron Buddha head from the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), and 140 terracotta Buddha heads from both the Goryeo and Joseon Dynasties. Of all these relics, 32 pieces were collectively designated as Tangible Cultural Heritage by Gwangju Metropolitan City. With the discovery of these artifacts, it seems as though the temple precedes the founding legend of Wonhyosa Temple from the Goryeo Dynasty, which makes the earlier foundational legends more plausible.
Then in 1974, and after resolving a property dispute over a three year period, a temple restoration project was initiated. It was at this point that a retaining wall was constructed and old buildings were demolished. This was followed in 1980 with the rebuilding of the Daeung-jeon Hall, the monks’ dorms, the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, and the Chilseong-gak Hall. Then in 1992, the Josa-jeon Hall and the Wonhyo-ru Pavilion were constructed.
There are two other municipal treasures at Wonhyosa Temple. They are the “East Stupa of Wonhyosa Temple,” and the “Bronze Bell of Mansusa Temple at Wonhyosa Temple.”
Temple Layout
After making your way up a long, winding mountain road, you’ll eventually come to the temple parking lot. You’ll first be welcomed by a large wall that separates the temple grounds from the surrounding mountains. Making your way through a large collection of trees, you’ll see the two-story Wonhyo-ru Pavilion. The first story acts as an entry gate to the main temple courtyard at Wonhyosa Temple. The second story, on the other hand, is used for larger Dharma talks or simply resting. Taking up residence inside this second story is a large statue dedicated to Podae-hwasang (The Hempen Bag).
Finally entering the main temple courtyard, you’ll find the Daeung-jeon Hall straight ahead of you. Before making your way up to the main hall, you’ll find a modern five-story pagoda slightly to the right. And fronting the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find an oddly shaped, large stone lantern. It’s also in this area that you’ll find a spring housed inside the Gamno-jeon Pavilion. The exterior walls are adorned in Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by a statue of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This central statue is joined by images of Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power) and Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom). And all three statues rest underneath a red datjib (canopy). The interior walls are adorned with Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals), as well as a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the immediately right of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Geukrak-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in dancheong colours, while the interior is occupied by a triad centred by a large statue dedicated to Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). This large statue is joined on either side by standing statues of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). And in front of this building, running parallel, appears to be the monks’ dorms.
To the immediate left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the temple’s Samseong-gak Hall. Housed inside this shaman shrine hall is a beautiful collection of three shaman murals. All three shaman paintings were created by the same artist. And in the centre of the three, you’ll find a painting of Chilseong (The Seven Stars). This painting is joined to the right by a painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). This painting is fronted by an odd, bald-headed statue of Sanshin. The painting, on the other hand, is done in the Korean folk tradition. And to the left of Chilseong, you’ll find a painting dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). Again, this painting is fronted by an odd statue. This time, this statue is dedicated to Dokseong. And all three paintings are fronted by 15 white stone images of the Buddha.
Next to the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find an older storage building. This might be the oldest building at the temple. This small building is joined to the east by a larger Myeongbu-jeon Hall. Resting on the main altar is a slender green-haired statue dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). And on either side of Jijang-bosal are ten seated statues of the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld).
The final shrine hall at Wonhyosa Temple is the Wonhyo-jeon Hall. Stepping inside this unique shrine hall, you’ll find a solitary painting on the main altar. This is dedicated to Wonhyo-daesa, for whom the temple gets its name. Also taking up residence inside the Wonhyo-jeon Hall is the “Bronze Bell of Mansusa Temple at Wonhyosa Temple.” This bronze bell, which was made during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), stands 86 cm in height. It also has a diametre of 63 cm. The dragon hook (yongnyu) atop the bronze bell is adorned with two dragons. Each of these dragons is holding a flaming pearl (yeouiju) in its mouth. An additional flaming pearl is also placed above the dragon heads, surrounded by fire. Around the upper portion of the bell is a decorative band featuring Sanskrit characters. Below this band are four Bodhisattva figures. Near these figures is an inscription praying for the peace of the royal family. It’s believed that this bronze bell was first cast in 1710 at Mansusa Temple.
To the rear of the Wonhyo-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Beomjong-gak Pavilion. When you first arrived at the temple, you probably saw it protruding out from the front wall facade at the temple. Housed inside this is a large, bronze bell.
While at Wonhyosa Temple, keep an eye out for the “East Stupa of Wonhyosa Temple.” This stupa is 150 metres to the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall. It’s nestled inside a forest. The stupa has a square base. The foundation includes lotus carvings on the upper surface of the bottom support stone. While the stupa follows the octagonal style of Unified Silla, the square features suggest that it was created during the late Goryeo Dynasty.
How To Get There
From the U-Square (Gwangju Bus Terminal), you’ll need to take Bus #1187. You’ll need to take this bus for 35 stops, or 65 minutes, and get off at the “Mudeungsan Gukrib-gongwon (Wonhyosa) – 무등산국립공원 (원효사) 하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to make your way up the mountain road for about 8 minutes, or 530 metres.
Overall Rating: 6/10
Most of what’s impressive about Wonhyosa Temple was excavated and is now housed inside the museums at Songgwangsa Temple and the Gwangju National Museum. As for the temple itself, you can enjoy the Wonhyo-jeon Hall, the shaman paintings inside the Samseong-gak Hall, the large Wonhyo-ru Pavilion at the entry of the temple grounds, as well as the “East Stupa of Wonhyosa Temple,” if you can find it. The views at Wonhyosa Temple certainly don’t hurt either.
