Yeonhosa Temple – 연호사 (Hapcheon, Gyeongsangnam-do)

Temple History

Yeonhosa Temple is located along the Hwanggang River in southern Hapcheon, Gyeongsangnam-do. The temple was first built in 643 A.D. by the monk Wau-seonsa, who built the temple to pacify the spirits of King Muyeol of Silla’s son-in-law Kim Pum-seok (?-642 A.D.), his wife, their children, and thousands of Silla soldiers. Kim and his soldiers died during the Battle of Daeyaseong Fortress (642 A.D.), which was part of a much larger engagement between the forces of the Baekje Kingdom (18 B.C. – 660 A.D.) and the Silla Kingdom (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.), which was known as the Battle of the Great Wilderness (642 A.D.). In total, two thousand Silla soldiers would die including Kim Pum-seok. However, not only did Kim Pum-seok die, but his wife, Lady Gotaso (627 – 642 A.D.), who was the daughter of King Muyeol of Silla (r. 654–661 A.D.), would die, as well. For this reason, King Muyeol of Silla, King Munmu of Silla (r. 661–681 A.D.), and Kim Yu-sin (595-673 A.D.) would hold a deep grudge against the Baekje Kingdom for the death of Lady Gotaso. Eventually, Kim Pum-seok’s body would be recovered by Kim Yu-sin in exchange for eight captured Baekje Kingdom generals. This loss, though it was devastating, would lead to the eventual defeat and fall of the Baekje Kingdom. Kim Yu-sin would lead the forces that defeated the Baekje Kingdom, while King Muyeol of Silla, through diplomatic efforts with the Tang Dynasty (618–690, 705–907 A.D.), would eventually lead to the unification of the Three Kingdoms of Korea. Thus, the loss at the Battle of Daeyaseong Fortress played a pivotal role in Korean history.

In total, there are three provincial treasures in and around the temple grounds. They are the “Shinjung Taenghwa of Yeonhosa Temple, Hapcheon,” which is Gyeongsangnam-do Tangible Cultural Property #488; the “Stele of Yi Jeung-yeong,” which is Gyeongsangnam-do Tangible Cultural Property #367; and the “Hambyeong-ru Pavilion, Hapcheon,” which is Gyeongsangnam-do Tangible Cultural Property #59. Also, Yeonhosa Temple is one of the 982 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea.

Temple Layout

For a temple with such a bloody past, it’s beautifully situated next to a picturesque river and within the walls of the former Daeyaseong Fortress. Originally, the fortress was first built in 565 A.D. by the Silla Kingdom to prevent an invasion by the neighbouring Baekje Kingdom. Hapcheon was a key border area between the two kingdoms. And because of its many advantageous geographical features like the Hwanggang River to the south and the cliffs of Mt. Chwijeoksan to the north, Daeyaseong Fortress was perfectly placed to defend Hapcheon. Originally, the fortress measured about two kilometres in circumference; but now, there’s only about 500 metres of wall remaining from the original fortress.

You first approach the temple grounds along the Hwanggang River. The river beautifully shimmers underneath the sun’s rays. From the temple parking lot, you’ll pass through the stately Iljumun Gate. The various surfaces to this entry gate are adorned in beautiful dancheong that includes images of dragons, tigers, and Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). To the left, and along the pathway, you’ll pass by the monks’ dorms and administrative office. A little further along, and you’ll notice a collection of stele. These stele include the central “Stele of Yi Jeung-yeong,” which is a provincial treasure. This stele was first erected in 1559 by the people of Hapcheon to commemorate Yi Jeung-yeong (?-1563), who served as magistrate from 1554 to 1558. The stele is inscribed with the word “Yuaebi” on it. This means “Stele of Inherited Affection” in English. This expression comes from the idea that “one [in power] should bestow affection to the people [over which they rule].” This stele consists of a stone body and a capstone with a lotus bud adorning it. The inscription on the stele also describes how Yi Jeung-yeong helped the extremely poor in the region during the harvest of 1554.

A little further up the pathway, and now this time to the left and the riverside, you’ll find the “Hambyeong-ru Pavilion, Hapcheon.” This is yet another provincial treasure around Yeonhosa Temple. The pavilion, which is placed alongside the river, is presumed to have first been built in 1321 during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392) by Kim Yeong-don (1285-1348). Kim served as the magistrate of the Hapcheon area. The pavilion was later reconstructed several times. The name of the pavilion, Hambyeong-ru Pavilion, means “Imbued With Teal Light Pavilion” in English. The scenic beauty of the pavilion has long been enjoyed by poets, artists, and scholars throughout the centuries.

Back at the main pathway after enjoying the pavilion, you’ll finally come to the outskirts of the main temple courtyard. The shrine halls at Yeonhosa Temple are stacked. The first of these buildings is the Geukrak-jeon Hall, which has a wooden corridor out in front of it. Stepping inside the Geukrak-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by a triad of statues. In the centre is the image of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). This image is flanked on either side by statues of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). All three statues are robust with large, square, serene heads. To the left of the main altar is a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural), but this isn’t the historic provincial treasure from 1792. It’s unclear where that is housed. In front of this modern Shinjung Taenghwa is a standing image of Dongjin-bosal (The Bodhisattva that Protects the Buddha’s Teachings). And to the right of the main altar, you’ll find a painting dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). This painting is lined with smaller images of the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld) and fronted by a statue of Jijang-bosal.

Up a set of stairs to the west of the Geukrak-jeon Hall, you’ll find the temple’s small bronze bell. A little further along, and up another set of stairs, you’ll come to the Samseong-gak Hall. This shaman shrine hall is filled with a wonderful set paintings. On the far right wall, you’ll find a mural dedicated to Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.) and Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.). Next to this is an older mural dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). Across the front main altar, you’ll find a beautiful new golden mural also dedicated to Chilseong. To the right is an older mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit); and to the left of the central image dedicated to Chilseong, you’ll find another older painting. This painting is dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). And on the far left wall, you’ll find a beautiful, new painting dedicated to Sanshin with a fierce tiger at his side. It’s a beautiful collection of shamanic paintings.

How To Get There

From the Hapcheon Bus Terminal, you can simply walk to get to Yeonhosa Temple. You’ll first need to head south down “Daeya-ro – 대야로” street for about 400 metres. You’ll then need to head east along “Hwanggang-chaeyuk-gongwon-ro – 황강쳬육공원로” street, which goes around Daeyaseong Fortress. You’ll need to follow this meandering road for about 600 metres. Eventually, you’ll come to a parking lot, where you’ll find the Iljumun Gate. In total, the walk from the Hapcheon Intercity Bus Terminal will take about 15 minutes, or one kilometre.

But if you have a mobility issue, you can simply take a taxi from the Hapcheon Bus Terminal. The taxi ride will only take about three minutes, and it’ll cost you around 5,800 won (one way).

Overall Rating: 6/10

There’s a lot of Korea’s bloody past packed in and around Yeonhosa Temple. In addition to all of this bloody history, Yeonhosa Temple is located next to the tranquil Hwanggang River and surrounded by Daeyaseong Fortress. Outside of all of this natural beauty, you can also enjoy the “Hambyeong-ru Pavilion, Hapcheon,” the numerous historic stele on the mountainside, the interior of the Geukrak-jeon Hall, and the stunning paintings inside the Samseong-gak Hall. If you’re a Korean history buff, then Yeonhosa Temple is perfect for you. And if you enjoy nature, then Yeonhosa Temple is perfect for you. The temple is a beautiful blend of history, nature, and artistry in one location.