Yulgoksa Temple – 율곡사 (Sancheong, Gyeongsangnam-do)
Temple History
Yulgoksa Temple is located in eastern Sancheong, Gyeongsangnam-do in the the eastern foothills of Mt. Jeongsusan (829.8 m). Purportedly, Yulgoksa Temple was first founded in 651 A.D. by the famed monk Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.). The temple would later be rebuilt in 930 A.D. by the monk Gamak. Almost nothing is known about the temple during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). However, there is an octagonal stone pedestal for a Buddha statue that’s situated in front of the temple’s Daeung-jeon Hall from the Goryeo Dynasty. Also, Yulgoksa Temple is mentioned in the Dongguk Yeoji Seungnam (Geographical Records of Korea), which was published during the reign of King Seongjong of Joseon (r. 1469-1495). The temple appears under the section for Danseong-hyeon that states, “Yulgoksa Temple is located on Mt. Cheokji.” This quote is proof that Yulgoksa Temple existed as a temple at the start of the early Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910).
Another interesting fact about Yulgoksa Temple is its close proximity to Jeongchwiam Hermitage, which was established by Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.), and who was close friends with Wonhyo-daesa (the founder of Yulgoksa Temple). Yulgoksa Temple is only four kilometres from Jeongchwiam Hermitage, so the two master monks would often visit each other and share a midday meal with one another. Locally, it’s said that Yulgoksa Temple exists because of Jeongchwiam Hermitage, and vice versa. They symbolize their mutual dependence and harmony.
In total, Yulgoksa Temple is home to two Korean Treasures and one provincial Treasure. The two Korean Treasures are the Daeung-jeon Hall, which is Korean Treasure #374; and the “Hanging Painting of Yulgoksa Temple,” which is Korean Treasure #375. As for the provincial treasure, it’s “The Wooden Seated Amitabha Buddha Triad of Yulgoksa,” which is Gyeongsangnam-do Tangible Cultural Heritage #373.
Temple Legends
As for temple legends at Yulgoksa Temple, there are a couple. The first of these legends is the “Tale of the Master Carpenter.” In this legend, when the Daeung-jeon Hall was being rebuilt at Yulgoksa Temple, there was a carpenter that volunteered to do the work. The temple entrusted him with this task; and yet, for three months, he only made a few of the wooden joints for the main hall. Frustrated, the abbot secretly hid a carved wooden joint (mokchim). The abbot did this in the hopes of helping to speed up the rebuild of the Daeung-jeon Hall.
After completing all of the wooden joints for the Daeung-jeon Hall, the carpenter noticed that one was missing, so he quietly packed up his tools and announced that he was leaving Yulgoksa Temple without completing his work on the Daeung-jeon Hall. The confused abbot stopped the carpenter and asked him, “Why are you leaving?” The carpenter answered, “If my sincerity is so inadequate, how can I build this temple?”
Realizing the seriousness of the situation, the abbot explained to the carpenter what he had done. After explaining what he had done, he retrieved the wooden joint that he had hidden from the carpenter, and the abbot apologized, as well. Only then did the carpenter proceed with his work, quickly completing what remained undone on the Daeung-jeon Hall. And the Daeung-jeon Hall was completed with remarkable precision without a single nail being used to complete the main hall. As a result of this legend, Yulgoksa Temple earned the nickname of “Mokchim Temple.”
Another legend connected to Yulgoksa Temple is the legend surrounding Saesin Rock. To the right of the temple grounds, and beneath a towering cliff known as Saesin Rock, there lies a site said to have been chosen by Wonhyo-daesa as the location for the temple. According to this legend, Wonhyo-daesa climbed the rock, surveyed the land, and determined that this area was a perfect place for a temple.
When the temple neared completion, a painter was hired to paint the interior of the Daeung-jeon Hall. The painter instructed the monks not to enter the main hall or look inside it for seven days, as he worked. On the seventh day, the abbot of the temple, overcome with curiosity, peeked through a crack in the door of the Daeung-jeon Hall.
Surprised, the abbot saw a bird holding a paint brush with its beak, and it was painting intricate murals on the walls. Startled by the abbot, the bird dropped the brush and flew away. The bird landed on the cliff now known as “Saesin,” or “Bird Spirit Rock” in English.
Inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, two partially completed landscape paintings were found on the walls. These two paintings, which remain to this day, were left incomplete by the bird. These two paintings are now celebrated for their mysterious origin.
Temple Layout
There is a lot of construction taking place currently at Yulgoksa Temple out in front of the Daeung-jeon Hall. Making your way up to the Daeung-jeon Hall from the lower level temple parking lot, you’ll first encounter a modern five-story pagoda that’s quite slender. As for the Daeung-jeon Hall, it was disassembled in 2003, which revealed an inscription on a beam that confirmed that the main hall underwent significant renovations in 1679. As to when the Daeung-jeon Hall was first built, it’s unknown. The exterior walls are adorned in elaborate dancheong colours. The front floral latticework is stunning, and there’s a beautiful, blue dragon mural swirling above the central entrance to the Daeung-jeon Hall.
Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the “Wooden Seated Amitabha Buddha Triad of Yulgoksa Temple, Sancheong” on the main altar underneath a large, red datjib (canopy). The central image in the triad is that of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise), who is flanked on either side by Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). The three statues measure at least one metre in height, and they are presumed to have been made in the 17th century. All three statues have angular faces, and their robes flow down the middle of their legs, which is characteristic of Buddhist statues made in the 17th century. They are all masterful in composition.
On the far right wall, you’ll find an older, but smaller, Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). This mural is joined by a painting dedicated to Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.). The backside of the main altar is adorned with a rather simple mural dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal, who is joined by a rather angry-looking image of Yongwang (The Dragon King). And on the far left wall, you’ll find a mural dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife).
To the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the monks’ dorms, administrative office, and kitchen at Yulgoksa Temple. To the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, on the other hand, you’ll find a large tree and pathway that leads up to the Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls to the shaman shrine hall are adorned in simply dancheong colours. Stepping inside the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find three paintings dedicated to the three most popular shaman deities. In the centre is a painting dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars), who is joined in the painting by a rather large-headed figure of Bukseong (The North Star). To the right of this central image is a painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). Sanshin is joined by a surprised-looking tiger with a rather large head. And to the left of Chilseong is a painting dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). All three paintings were made by the same artist. Also, be careful when walking around the Samseong-gak Hall, there’s a hidden beam on the floor that you might trip over like me.
It’s in and around the Samseong-gak Hall that you get a beautiful view of the valley and countryside below. There’s a pavilion and what looks to be a meditation hall in this area of the temple grounds.
Additionally, and off-limits to the general public, is the “Hanging Painting of Yulgoksa Temple,” which is the other Korean Treasure at Yulgoksa Temple. Typically, this painting is only displayed on special occasions like Buddha’s birthday or the funeral of a eminent monk. This large painting, which is a Gwaebul, measures 827 cm in height and 475 cm in width. It was first painted in 1684, and it was later repaired in 1729. In the painting, the Historical Buddha, Seokgamoni-bul, is holding a lotus flower in its hands and wearing a wonderful crown on its head. In the crown, there are miniature Buddha images in the front center. The Historical Buddha is also wearing a robe decorated with floral patterns. However, with that being said, the crowned image looks more like a Bodhisattva than it does a Buddha. The background is filled with ten peonies in different colours. A prayer for the well-being of the king, queen, and crown prince is written between the Buddha’s feet, which is uncommon in Gwaebul paintings.
How To Get There
From the Sancheong Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take two buses to get to Yulgoksa Temple. The first bus is Bus #51. You’ll need to take this bus for 8 stops, or 21 minutes, and get off at the “Chahwang-myeon – 차황면 하차” bus stop. From here, you’ll then need to catch Bus #58. You’ll need to take this bus for 7 stops, or 10 minutes, and get off at the “Yulhyeon – 율현 하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to walk west along “Yulgoksa-gil – 율곡사길” road for nearly 2 km. The hike will take about 45 minutes, so be prepared.
The easier way to get to Yulgoksa Temple is by taxi from the Sancheong Bus Terminal. The taxi ride should take about 22 minutes, or 17 km, and it’ll cost you around 23,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 6/10
The main attraction at Yulgoksa Temple is the Daeung-jeon Hall. This Korean Treasure is simple, yet elegant. In addition to the architecture, the interior is filled with “The Wooden Seated Amitabha Buddha Triad of Yulgoksa Temple, Sancheong” underneath a large, red canopy that’s stunning. Additionally, the artwork that adorns the interior walls is something not to overlook. The views from the Samseong-gak Hall are beautiful as are the paintings of the three shaman deities inside the shaman shrine hall.
