Bulgapsa Temple – 불갑사 (Yeonggwang, Jeollanam-do)
Temple History
Bulgapsa Temple is located in southern Yeonggwang, Jeollanam-do in the northwestern foothills of Mt. Bulgapsan (516 m). The exact date of the temple’s founding is unknown; however there is one legend that suggests that Bulgapsa Temple was first founded in 384 A.D. by the monk Haengsa-jonja, who was also known as Marananta (fl. late 4th century). Also according to this legend, Marananta established three temples: Bulgapsa Temple, Dogapsa Temple, and Bonggapsa Temple. Rather interestingly, Marananta is credited with introducing Buddhism to Baekje Kingdom (18 B.C. – 660 A.D.) in 384 A.D. Reportedly, Marananta arrived on the Korean Peninsula at Beopseong-po Port, which means “Sacred Law Port” in English. This port is located near Bulgapsa Temple. However, the name Beopseong-po Port was a name first used for the port during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). Before that, and during the Baekje Kingdom, the port was known as “Amu Port,” which might originate from the name Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). It’s speculated that Marananta might have introduced the Buddhist idea of the Western Pure Land of Amita-bul upon his arrival to the Baekje Kingdom. After this, and also during the Goryeo Dynasty, the port was known as Hwayong-po Port, which refers to a lotus blooming in muddy water. Thus, all three names from the Baekje Kingdom, to the Goryeo Dynasty, and to the present-day, all have symbolic links to Buddhism. This lends some credibility to the fact that Bulgapsa Temple was first founded by Marananta.
Another source on the founding of the temple indicates that Bulgapsa Temple was first founded by the monk Haeng-eun during the reign of King Munju of Baekje (r. 475–477 A.D.). During the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), the temple would reach its peak when Jingak-guksa (1178-1234) resided at the temple. At this time, there were hundreds of monks that lived at Bulgapsa Temple, and the temple’s land was over ten ri (four kilometres) in size.
After the temple continued to grow in size, Bulgapsa Temple was destroyed during the Imjin War (1592-98) in 1597. It would later be restored after the war by the monk Beomreung. In 1635, the “Wooden Seated Sakyamuni Buddha Triad of Bulgapsa Temple” was installed inside the Daeung-jeon Hall. The temple underwent additional repairs in 1644, 1654 and 1675.
A major reconstruction of the temple took place in 1680, which was followed by the refurbishment of various statues and paintings at Bulgapsa Temple from 1702 to 1706. The temple would fall into disrepair and be abandoned for many years. Eventually, a monk from Baegyangsa Temple would travel to rebuild Bulgapsa Temple in 1869. This would result in subsequent rebuilds in 1876 and 1879. In fact, and in 1876, the Four Heavenly Kings statues now housed at Bulgapsa Temple were moved from Yeongisa Temple, an abandoned temple, to Bulgapsa Temple in 1876. In 1904, the Manse-ru Pavilion was restored by the monk Geumhwa, which was followed by the restoration of the Daeung-jeon Hall and the reconstruction of the Chilseong-gak Hall in 1909. In 1923, the Myeongbu-jeon Hall was relocated to its present location near the Daeung-jeon Hall. A bell pavilion and bell were both made in 1974. And even more restorations took place from the 1970s onward to the present-day.
In total, Bulgapsa Temple is home to four Korean Treasures and one additional Natural Monument.
Temple Layout
You’ll first make your way up a long road filled with stores and restaurants, until eventually these buildings give way to forested roads. Eventually, you’ll arrive at the temple parking lot just outside the main temple grounds. The first of the structures to greet you is the Geumgangmun Gate. The exterior walls of this structure are adorned with images of Geumgang-yeoksa (Vajra Warriors). Stepping inside this entry gate, you’ll be welcomed by a pair of Geumgang-yeoksa statues and seated images of Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) and Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power). The child-like image of Munsu-bosal sits atop a blue lion, while the child-like image of Bohyeon-bosal sits atop the six-tusked image of an elephant.
Beyond the Geumgangmun Gate, and up another set of stone stairs, you’ll come to the Cheonwangmun Gate. The exterior walls are adorned with various painted images of guardians. Stepping inside the Cheonwangmun Gate, you’ll be welcomed by the Four Heavenly Kings from the former Yeongisa Temple. These statues, which are officially known as the “Wooden Four Heavenly Kings and Enshrined Documents of Bulgapsa Temple,” date back to the mid 17th century. Additionally, they are one of the four Korean Treasures at Bulgapsa Temple. Each of the wooden statues measures 4.5 metres in height, and there’s an interesting little legend associated with them. According to this legend, the statues of the Four Heavenly Kings appeared before the monk Seoldu promising to protect Bulgapsa Temple, if they were moved there by the monk. The only stipulation was that they needed to be covered by a building with a roof to protect them from the elements. And that’s how the Four Heavenly Kings of Bulgapsa Temple got to the temple.
Next up, and up another set of stairs, is the Manse-ru Pavilion at Bulgapsa Temple. The Manse-ru Pavilion is slightly elevated off the ground with its exterior adorned in simple dancheong colours. The building was originally used for larger dharma talks. Over the years, it’s been renovated three separate times in 1644, 1675, and 1802. As for its placement in front of the lower courtyard, and the Daeung-jeon Hall, is that it’s believed to protect the Daeung-jeon Hall from evil spirits and keep the temple grounds safe.
To the immediate left of the Manse-ru Pavilion, you’ll find the Beomjong-gak Pavilion. This is the bell pavilion that was first constructed in 1974. Additionally, the large bronze bell that it houses was also made in 1974, as well. The Beomjong-gak Pavilion also houses the three other traditional Buddhist percussion instruments including a Beopgo (Dharma Drum) that’s without rawhide on one of its sides.
To the left or right of the Manse-ru Pavilion, you’ll enter into the lower temple courtyard at Bulgapsa Temple. Straight ahead of you is the Daeung-jeon Hall, which is another Korean Treasure at Bulgapsa Temple. In total, the Daeung-jeon Hall has undergone six major restorations, and its square stone base is believed to date back to the Baekje Kingdom. The floral latticework is adorned with elaborate carvings of chrysanthemums and lotus flower designs. Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll instantly notice that the orientation of the interior is different than most other main halls. Instead of being centrally located, the main altar triad is located on the northern side of the building. Thus, the “Wooden Seated Sakyamuni Buddha Triad of Bulgapsa Temple,” currently faces north-to-south. This first occurred in 1764, when the main altar triad was placed in this direction. This would change in 1825, when the triad was placed facing east-to-west. However, in 1986, and to the present-day, the orientation of the main hall’s interior faces north-to-south, once more. There are only a few other historic shrine halls in Korea like this such as the Yeongsan-jeon Hall at Tongdosa Temple, the Daegwangbo-jeon Hall at Magoksa Temple, and the Muryangsu-jeon Hall at Buseoksa Temple. Looking around the interior of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find dragon heads adorning the corner brackets, as well as a ceiling filled with floral patterns. There are also floral paintings and cranes adorning the walls of the structure, as well as a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) on the the far right wall. And the backside of the main altar has an all-white image of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) reminiscent of the same painting found at Muwisa Temple in Gangjin, Jeollanam-do.
The “Wooden Seated Sakyamuni Buddha Triad of Bulgapsa Temple,” which is another Korean Treasure at Bulgapsa Temple, rests upon the main altar. The central image is Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), who is joined on either side by Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise) and Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). This triad was first made in 1635 by ten Buddhist monk-sculptors including Monk Muyeom. This triad is the oldest existing work by the famed monk-sculptor Monk Muyeom. The image of Seokgamoni-bul has a larger body than the flanking Buddhas. Large beads are adorning the topknot on its head. The square face has a gentle smile, and its ears extend down to its shoulders. The robe is hung on both of its shoulders, with the right arm revealed underneath the robe. The fingers of one hand point downward, while the other hand placed on its lap has its palm facing up, which is a mudra (ritualized hand gesture) of subjugating demons. Both Yaksayeorae-bul and Amita-bul have the same features of the central image of Seokgamoni-bul. The only differences are that the two flanking Buddhas are smaller in size than the central image of Seokgamoni-bul. Also, the right image of Yaksayeorae-bul holds a medicine jar in its right hand. Overall, the triad is masterful in design.
To the left and right of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find monks’ dorms. There are also stone flagpole supports in the centre of the courtyard in front of the main hall. To the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, and still in the lower courtyard, you’ll find the Myeongbu-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in modern murals depicting the suffering in the afterlife. They are a stunning set. Stepping inside the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, you’ll find a green-haired statue dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) on the main altar. This central image is joined on either side by the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld). The entire collection of statues inside the Myeongbu-jeon Hall were first made in 1654 by the monk Muyeom.
To the left of the Myeongbu-jeon Hall is the Muryangsu-jeon Hall. Housed inside this shrine hall are memorials for the dead, as well as an image of Amita-bul on the main altar. And to the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall is the understated Munsu-jeon Hall.
In the upper courtyard, and starting from the left, you’ll find the newly constructed Gwaneum-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to the Gwaneum-jeon Hall are adorned with stunning images of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) including a couple of paintings of the Bodhisattva of Compassion with red spider lilies. Stepping inside the Gwaneum-jeon Hall, you’ll find a solitary statue of Gwanseeum-bosal inside a glass enclosure underneath a large, red canopy. The interior walls are adorned with simple images of the Gwanseeum-bosal.
To the right of the Gwaneum-jeon Hall is the Josa-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in simple dancheong colours and a set of floral and landscape paintings. Stepping inside this shrine hall, you’ll find that it’s filled with paintings and pictures of monks that once called Bulgapsa Temple home, including a central painting dedicated to the monk Marananta.
To the right of the Josa-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Chilseong-gak Hall; however, this shaman shrine hall functions as a Samseong-gak Hall. The left exterior wall is adorned with a stunning, modern Hojak-do (Tiger and Magpie Painting). The interior is home to three shaman murals that include one to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint), Chilseong (The Seven Stars), and Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). In the Sanshin painting, there is a wonderful, large red pine. The Chilseong-gak Hall was last renovated in 1923. And to the right of the Chilseong-gak Hall is the Palsang-jeon Hall, which houses images from the Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals).
How To Get There
From the Yeonggwang Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus #150 to get to Bulgapsa Temple. In total, the bus ride will last about 42 minutes, over 25 stops. You’ll need to get off at the “Bulgapsa-jongjeom – 불갑사종점 하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to walk 175 metres, or 3 minutes, to get to Bulgapsa Temple.
Overall Rating: 8.5/10
Bulgapsa Temple is one of the oldest Buddhist temples in Korea, and it’s arguably the first Baekje Kingdom temple, as well. Aside from its age, it’s home to some stunning Korean Treasures including the Daeung-jeon Hall, the “Wooden Seated Sakyamuni Buddha Triad of Bulgapsa Temple,” and the “Wooden Four Heavenly Kings and Enshrined Documents of Bulgapsa Temple.” In addition to all of this Buddhist artistry and architecture, the nature that surrounds Bulgapsa Temple is quite stunning, as well. The only drawback to Bulgapsa Temple is its rather remote location.
