Daegaksa Temple – 대각사 (Jung-gu, Busan)
Temple History
Daegaksa Temple in Jung-gu, Busan is a Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45) temple. The temple was one of the first Japanese Buddhist temples to be constructed after the Japan–Korea Treaty of 1876, which opened the Busan Port to international trade. Initially, the temple was known as the Dongbonwonsa Busan Branch. The Dongbonwonsa Busan Branch was first founded on November 5th, 1877. The temple was affiliated with the Otani-ha of the Honganji Temple in Kyoto, Japan. After the opening of the Busan Port, the Otani-ha began missionary work upon the request of the Japanese government. So in 1877, Okumura Enshin was sent to Korea. Okumura Enshin, it should be noted, was the descendent of Okumura Joshin, who was sent to Korea before the Imjin War (1592-98) for reconnaissance. Okumura Enshin, with the help of local officials, used the residence of the Deputy Governor to establish the Honganji Mission Office. It was from here that Japanese Buddhist missionary work began. In December, 1878, the mission office was renamed the “Otani-ha Busan Branch – 大谷派釜山別院.”
From the start, the Otani-ha Busan Branch was used to help implement Japanese cultural policies. Through support programs, it helped aid the local Japanese population in Korea. It did this in a number of ways like the establishment of the Korean Language Academy in 1878, which taught Korean to Japanese residents. A private kindergarten was opened in 1897. And in 1898, the Japanese Women’s Association was started. During the Russo-Japanese War (1904-1905), the welfare program known as the “Busan Charity Society” was formed at the Otani-ha Busan Branch, as well. A separate “Welfare Division” was formed to help aid families with family members deployed as Japanese soldiers during the Russo-Japanese War.
As for the branch’s financial operations, it relied upon the support of the head temple in Kyoto. However, in 1902, the branch in Busan achieved financial independence through the donations of devotees, fees from cremation services, as well as rental income.
Other branches were also established to continue their missionary work throughout the region, opening branches in Jinju in 1907, Miryang in 1908, Samnangjin (part of present-day Miryang) in 1909, and further locations in Mokpo, Wonsan, Hamhung, Congjin, Sariwon, and Sinuiju.
By 1912, the abbot of Dongbonwonsa Busan Branch was Daiko Tonne. The number of Japanese devotees had significantly grown since it was first established. In 1912, there were 550 Japanese households and 50 Korean households registered as devotees. In 1923, the number had grown to 415 Japanese households. By 1931, there were 3,690 Japanese households and 82 Korean households. And in 1933 and 1934, the total number of Japanese households exceeded 4,000.
After Korea’s liberation in 1945, the temple was taken over by the Korean government. The Japanese property inside this temple was confiscated. Additionally, the temple’s land and buildings were auctioned off, as well. It was later used as the headquarters for the Gyeongnam Buddhist Affairs Office – 경남불교종무원. This site was then transformed into what we now know of as Daegaksa Temple. The only things that still remain from Japanese Colonial Rule of the former temple is the temple bell, stone lantern, and pagoda.
Daegaksa Temple suffered severe damage during the Korean War (1950-53). This was further compounded by a major fire on November 23, 1959. The temple would be reconstructed in 1969, taking its present form. During the June Democratic Struggle of 1987, Daegaksa Temple was used as a central location for the pro-democracy protests. The temple now serves as the main temple of the Hwajaeng Buddhist Order.
Temple Layout
You first approach Daegaeksa Temple down one of the wider roads in the Nampo-dong area. All but for the sign above the entryway to Daegaksa Temple, and you might simply pass by this urban temple without even noticing it. Surrounded by coffee shops, cafes, and neighbouring apartments, the Buddhist temple blends right in.
As you enter the compact temple grounds, you’ll immediately be welcomed by the rather long Daeung-jeon Hall at Daegaksa Temple. This is the only shrine hall at the temple. Out in front of the main hall, you’ll find two pagodas. One is a traditional-looking five-story Korean pagoda, while the other is a rather distinct-looking pagoda. This is one of the relics still remaining from Japanese Colonial Rule. Around the base of this pagoda, you’ll find a pair of carp, a lion, and a dragon. As for the body of the pagoda, there are five open chambers shielded by stone latticework. At the base of the body, there are miniature stone stairs leading up to the first of these open chambers. Next to this pagoda, and in and among some beautiful trees, you’ll find a Japanese-style stone lantern. Again, this is yet another of the relics remaining from the founding of the temple.
Up the stone stairs to the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll be greeted by a row of four small wooden lion statues. Around back are ten fading Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). In addition, there is a collection of landscape paintings. Another thing you’ll notice from the outside is that the main hall is made of concrete (not a personal favourite of mine).
Stepping inside the cavernous main hall, which can accommodate one thousand worshipers at a time and measures 990 square metres in size, you’ll instantly notice the canopy of paper lanterns strung from the ceiling. These are joined by paintings of the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha) up near the ceiling and rafters of the main hall. As for the main altar, there are seven statues. The central statue on the main altar is that of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). Purportedly, this statue dates back to the early Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) around the 15th century. Purportedly, it was brought to the temple in 1960 from somewhere around Mt. Jirisan. This central image of Amita-bul is joined to the right by a statue of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). And to the right of this statue is a beautiful standing image of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). The final statue to the far right is a smaller sized statue dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). To the left of the central image of Amita-bul, on the other hand, is a statue dedicated to Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha). Without a doubt, this Indian-influenced statue of the Future Buddha is beautiful in its differences. The statue to the far left is a stone statue of a Reclining Buddha. And hanging on the far left wall, you’ll find an older Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
The only other buildings at Daegaksa Temple are the administrative office and monks’ dorms, which are located to the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall. Additionally, you can get an amazing view of Busan Tower from the main hall.
How To Get There
You’ll first need to take the Busan subway, line one, to the Nampo subway station #111. Once there, go out exit #1 and head to the west along “Jagalchi-haean-ro – 자갈치해안로.” Head west for about 200 metres, until you get to “Gudeok-ro 48-beon-gil – 구덕로 48번길.” Eventually, this road will become “Gwangbok-ro 49-beon-gil – 광복 49번길” but keep heading north, until you get to “Jung-gu-ro 30-beon-gil – 중구로 30번길.” Head east along this road for 30 metres until you come to “Gwangbok-jungang-ro – 광복중앙로.” By now you should be able to see either the temple itself or the temple signs. In total, the walk from the Nampo subway station should take about 10 minutes, or 650 metres.
Overall Rating: 4/10
One of the main highlights to Daegaksa Temple is its colonial past. However, most of that no longer exists. What does exist like the stone lantern and pagoda are a glimpse into this troublesome past. Outside of this, other things to keep a look out for is the main altar Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) and the Indian-inspired Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha), as well. Also, if shopping is your thing, or you enjoy a good cafe or restaurant, the Nampo-dong area where Daegaksa Temple is located is pretty amazing, as well.
