Gukcheongsa Temple – 국청사 (Geumjeong-gu, Busan)
Temple History
Gukcheongsa Temple is located in the southern portion of Mt. Geumjeongsan (801.5 m) in Geumjeong-gu, Busan. Gukcheongsa Temple is also just south of the Geumgjeongsan-seong Fortress southern walls. Gukcheongsa Temple was first built by Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.) during the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.). Little is known about the temple’s history until the Imjin War (1592-98), when the temple was used as a strategic military command post by the Righteous Army against Japanese invading forces. In 1703, the Geumjeongsan-seong Fortress was repaired; and with it, Gukcheongsa Temple was rebuilt, as well.
More recently, the temple has undergone a lot of construction. In 1978, the Samseong-gak Hall was built. In 1982, the three-story stone pagoda was built in the centre of a pond. This was done to console the spirits of the dead, especially the Buddhist monks that gave their lives to defend the nation from Gukcheongsa Temple. The Daeung-jeon Hall was built in 1992. And in 1998, the monks’ dorms were constructed. Finally, and in 2010, the Iljumun Gate was constructed at the front of the temple grounds at Gukcheongsa Temple.
As for the name of the temple, Gukcheongsa Temple, it means “It takes the lead in overcoming national crisis with a clean mind, and it prevents and protects the temple from negative outside forces.” In addition to the temple’s name, it’s one of the 973 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea.
In total, Gukcheongsa Temple is home to two Busan Cultural Heritage Materials. They are the “Buddhist Army Commander’s Seal,” which is Busan Cultural Heritage Material #44; and the “Iron Drum of Gukcheongsa Temple,” which is Busan Cultural Heritage Material #93.
Temple Layout
You first approach Gukcheongsa Temple up one of the roads that connects the temple to the Sanseong mountain village. The first thing to greet you is a stout Iljumun Gate. This Iljumun Gate was built in 2010, and it has vibrant dancheong adorning it. A little further along, and you’ll next notice the beautiful temple pond with the three-story pagoda in its centre. The three-story pagoda was made in 1982. Surrounding the overgrown pond are various stone statues that include an image dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife).
A little further along, and past the temple parking lot, you’ll find a collection of temple shrine halls at Gukcheongsa Temple. But before you enter the main temple courtyard, you’ll notice an old monks’ dorm that’s no longer being used. Have a look at its unique stone exterior.
Now finally facing the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find two buildings book-ending the main hall. These are the new monks’ dorms and the administrative office at Gukcheongsa Temple. The exterior walls to the Daeung-jeon Hall are adorned with masterful Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals), as well as a mural dedicated to the Bodhidharma and Dazu Huike (487–593 A.D.). And if you look especially close, you’ll find a mural dedicated to the myth behind the moktak. Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll be greeted by a beautiful triad underneath a large, red canopy. The central image on the main altar is dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This central image is joined on either side by Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) and Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power). Hanging to the left of the main altar triad is an older Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) underneath its own red canopy. And to the right of the main altar triad is a newer mural dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). Again, this main altar mural rests underneath its own datjib (canopy).
The only other shrine hall that visitors can explore at Gukcheongsa Temple is the Samseong-gak Hall to the left rear of the Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with a regal-looking tiger mural, as well as a mural dedicated to the myth of the golden well situated on top of Mt. Geumjeongsan, which just so happens to be where Gukcheongsa Temple is located. Stepping inside the shaman shrine hall, you’ll find three rather traditional modern images of the three most popular shaman deities inside. These three shaman deities are Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), Chilseong (The Seven Stars), and Dokseong (The Lonely Saint).
How To Get There
To get to Gukcheongsa Temple, you’ll first need to get to the Hwamyeong Subway Station, which is stop #235 on the second line. From here, you’ll need to catch a Busan city bus bound for the Deokcheon Rotary. Take the Busan city bus that reads “Sanseong – 산성” on it. Ride this bus until you get to the centre of the mountain community of Sanseong, which should take about fifteen to twenty minutes. Nearing the outskirts of this community, get off near a large bathroom complex. Facing this community bathroom, head in the direction that your back faces. You’ll see a small brown sign that directs you up towards the North Gate (북문) of the Busan Mountain Fortress (Geumjeongsanseong – 금정산성). Follow this road for one kilometre. Along the way, you’ll come across Gukcheongsa Temple to your right. You’ll know that you’re in the right place when you see the temple’s Iljumun Gate next to the roadside.
Overall Rating: 6/10
Gukcheongsa Temple is beautifully situated on the southern slopes of the towering Mt. Geumjeongsan in northern Busan. Adding to its natural beauty is the pond centred three-story pagoda, the stout Iljumun Gate, the main altar triad inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, as well as the stunning set of murals that adorn the exterior of both the main hall and the Samseong-gak Hall.
