Guryongsa Temple – 구룡사 (Buk-gu, Busan)
Temple History
Guryongsa Temple, which means “Nine Dragons Temple” in English, is located in Buk-gu, Busan with the Nakdong River not too far off to the west. It shouldn’t be confused with the more famous Guryongsa Temple in Wonju, Gangwon-do. It’s believed that the temple was first established in 680 A.D. by the famed monk Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.). Guryongsa Temple was originally named Seonhyusa Temple because of its beautiful location. As a result, it was believed that the temple was made in a place where Taoist hermits would want to stop and rest. Eventually, the temple would be renamed Guryongsa Temple.
As for the name and how the temple came to be eventually known as Guryongsa Temple, it’s derived from a local legend. In this legend, nine dragons once inhabited a lake at the temple site. Uisang-daesa, upon finding the location suitable for a temple, used his spiritual powers to rid the lake of these nine dragons. It was after this that the temple was then constructed. Little is known about the temple outside its founding.
Later, the temple would be destroyed by fire during the Imjin War (1592-98). It would then be rebuilt in 1603. And then it was expanded in the fourth year of King Gwanghaegun of Joseon’s reign (r. 1608-1623). Much later, and in 1981, the abbot of Guryongsa Temple expanded the temple grounds. Further renovations and expansions have continued to this day including the addition of the Bulyu-gak Hall.
Temple Layout
First approaching Guryongsa Temple from the temple parking lot, you’ll be welcomed by a set of rather original stone statues of the Four Heavenly Kings. They are modern in composition, but they appear to have been inspired by Goryeo (918-1392). They are quite stunning in design.
A little past the statues of the Four Heavenly Kings, you’ll find a stone statue of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) underneath a pavilion. It’s unclear how old this statue might be, but it’s probably not too old. It’s in this bend in the pathway that you’ll start to make your way up to the lower courtyard at Guryongsa Temple.
The Lower Courtyard
The lower courtyard is occupied mainly by the administrative office to the right and the monks’ dorms to the far left. Between these two larger structures is a shrine hall that’s situated next to a tree. This shrine hall has one of the most original names that you’ll find at a Korean Buddhist temple. The name of this shrine hall is the Bulyu-gak Hall, which means “Buddha’s Milk Hall” in English. What this is symbolically likened to is a mother feeding her young child with milk. In a similar way, the Buddha’s mercy and compassion towards sentient beings is meant to be sustaining, as well. Additionally, these types of shrine halls are typically situated next to a source of water at a temple. And at Guryongsa Temple, the local well is situated out in front of the administrative office.
Stepping inside the Bulyu-gak Hall, you’ll find three paintings on the main altar. The central image is dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King). This image of Yongwang sits atop his throne that’s lined by a tiger’s fur. To his side is a blue dragon. And to his left, there are a pair of dongja (attendants). One holds a bowl of fruit, while the other holds a willowy fan overhead. The angry face of Yongwang looks out on his aquatic kingdom with fish swimming by. Yongwang holds a red wisdom pearl in his hand, while atop his crown is a bronze dragon head.
To the right of this central image of Yongwang, and according to the hanja written in the red rectangle in the painting, is an image of Dangsan-daesin (Great Guardian Spirit Dangsan). This guardian spirit typically protects the village or area from misfortune, disease, and evil spirits. While doing this, it also grants good harvests, prosperity, and communal harmony. It’s also sometimes thought of as a spiritual ancestor of the community. While some Dangsan-daesin can be male, others are female. And yet others can be without a gender. Judging by this painting, I think this image of Dangsan-daesin is genderless. It has male features like a tiny moustache and square jaw, but it has long hair and some delicate features. This image of Dangsan-daesin holds a staff of authority in one hand, while wearing a regal robe and crown. Next to the dragon headed throne, and in the upper right corner, there are a pair of dongja (attendants). The inscription goes on to say that this image was created in the spring of 2023, and it’s meant for good fortune, health, and peace in all worldly endeavors.
The image to the right of the central image dedicated to Yongwang could be, at least according to the hanja inscription on the painting, Great King Yongwang – 龍王大神. The hanja is a bit difficult to discern, so I could be wrong. However, if it is in fact Great King Yongwang, he’s believed to reside in the Waters of the Four Seas. He protects the Dharma and sentient beings. He also brings rain for harvests, neutralizes natural disasters, grants wishes, and offers safety to those traveling across water and land. Great King Yongwang is also thought to serve Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), while also supporting Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). The inscription on the painting states how the image is meant to seek blessings, peace, and the fulfillment of vows. Like the Dangsan-daesin, it was created in the spring of 2023.
Also housed in the lower courtyard, and located next to the Bulyu-gak Hall, is a stone shrine dedicated to Samshin Halmeoni (Childbearing Deity). In this relief, there’s the central image of Samshin Halmeoni. She’s surrounded by five different reliefs of children. It’s rare to see an older relief of Samshin Halmeoni at a Korean Buddhist temple. Having asked the temple how old this relief is, they answered that they didn’t know. They guessed that it might be from the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.). This seems unlikely based upon its design. What’s more likely is that it’s from the late 19th to early 20th century.
The Main Courtyard
To the left of the administrative office at Guryongsa Temple, you’ll find a zig-zagging pathway that will bring you to the main courtyard of the temple grounds. Straight ahead of you is the rather long Cheonbulseong-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with amazing floral latticework that includes images of bamboo, white cranes, lotus flowers, and peonies. Above these doors, you’ll find images of Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities), dragons, and phoenixes. And at the base of these doors, you’ll find scary Gwimyeon (Monster Mask) paintings. Adorning the left exterior walls are psychedelic images from the Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals). I guarantee you, you’ve never seen anything like these four paintings before.
Stepping inside the Cheonbulseong-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by seven golden statues. The central image is that of Birojana-bul (The Buddha of Cosmic Energy). This central image is joined on either side by two standing images of Bodhisattvas. Then there are two more seated Buddha statues. The statue to the left is that of Seokgamoni-bul, while the statue to the right is dedicated to Nosana-bul (The Perfect Body Buddha). And rounding out the seven statues, and book-ending the set, are two additional standing images of Bodhisattvas. Also taking up residence inside the main hall is a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural), mandala, white elephants, and a pair of colourful peacocks on the ceiling of the structure.
To the left of the main hall, you’ll find the Beomjong-gak Pavilion. You’ll find the traditional bronze bell inside. This is joined to the right by an atypical bronze bell. Hanging, this upside down kettle-like drum is a first for me. Never seen anything like it before. To the front right of the Beomjong-gak Pavilion is a serene monk-like statue holding a medicinal jar in both of its hands. And to the rear of this stone statue, and up a trail, you’ll find an image of Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha). This statue is housed inside a pavilion, and it holds a medicine jar in its left hand.
To the right of the Cheonbulseong-jeon Hall, and seemingly attached to the main hall, is the Samseong-gak Hall. Housed inside this shaman shrine hall are a nice collection of murals. To the far left is a mural dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). Dokseong has a rather odd expression on his face. In the centre of the three paintings is a mural and statue dedicated Chilseong (The Seven Stars). And to the far right, you’ll find a painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). In this painting is a central image of the Mountain Spirit. Sanshin is fronted by a mother tiger and two of its cubs. And on either side of Sanshin are dongja (attendants). Each of these dongja, rather originally, is holding a tiger of their own. The dongja to the left is holding a cub in such a way that it almost appears as though the baby tiger is a puppet.
To the right of the Samseong-gak Hall, and in the corner of the collective L-shaped shrine halls, you’ll find a shrine hall that houses an older stone statue dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul. While the base of the statue is well-worn, you can distinctly seeing the image holding a medicinal jar. And the expression on its face seems quite haunting.
Next to this Yaksa-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Jijang-jeon Hall. Housed all alone on the main altar is a golden-capped image of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). And hanging on the far left wall is a three-paneled mural dedicated to Jijang-bosal and the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld).
The final shrine hall in the main temple courtyard is the Gwaneum-jeon Hall. Beyond a pathway to the right, and part of a three-story structure, is the shrine hall dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). The exterior walls are adorned with the thirty-three different incarnations of the Bodhisattva of Compassion. These murals are continued inside the shrine hall, and they cover all the interior surfaces. Finally, and all alone on the main altar, is a statue dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal. It’s also from the Gwaneum-jeon Hall that you get the best view of the highway and the Nakdong River off in the distance.
Between the Jijang-jeon Hall and the Gwaneum-jeon Hall there’s a pathway that leads to the upper courtyard at Guryongsa Temple. But before heading up there, you’ll pass by a pagoda-like furnace. The exterior walls are adorned with Gwimyeon (Monster Masks) and the Banya Yongseon-do (The Dragon Ship of Wisdom) stone reliefs.
The Upper Courtyard
There are one of two ways of getting to the upper courtyard. You can continue up the pathway that rises at an incline. Eventually, this pathway will bend and bring you to the upper courtyard. Or you can take the narrow stone stairs that lead to the upper courtyard.
Eventually arriving at the top with whatever way you decided to make the trek, you’ll find a large, slender statue dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise). This slender statue stands atop a lotus pedestal, and it holds a medicine jar in its hands. It’s also topped by a crown. On either side of this statue of Yaksayeorae-bul, you’ll find a seokdeung (stone lanterns). This statue is also backed by a beautiful forest of red pines, and it’s fronted slightly to the left by an older three-story pagoda. The area is a nice little escape from the surrounding hustle and bustle of Busan.
How To Get There
The easiest way to get to Guryongsa Temple is by using public transportation. You’ll need to take a subway to stop #233, which is Deokcheon. From the Deokcheon subway station, you’ll need to go out exit #10. From this exit, head north along “Geumgokdae-ro – 금곡대로” street. You’ll need to head up this street for about 600 metres. You’ll need to cross under the highway overpass. Eventually, you’ll see the signs for the temple to your right. In total, the walk from the Deokcheon subway station is 650 metres, or 12 minutes.
Overall Rating: 7/10
There’s a lot to enjoy at Guryongsa Temple in Buk-gu, Busan. One of the main highlights is the Bulyu-gak Hall and the stone relief dedicated to Samshin Halmeoni (Childbearing Deity) next to it. Housed inside the Bulyu-gak Hall are a triad of highly original deities and paintings. Beyond this, there are highly original murals throughout the temple grounds that include the shaman paintings inside the Samseong-gak Hall and the psychedelic paintings that adorn the exterior of the Cheonbulseong-jeon Hall. You can also enjoy the stonework around the grounds like the massive statue dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha) in the upper courtyard, the older image of the Medicine Buddha housed inside the Yaksa-jeon Hall, and the highly original statues dedicated to the Four Heavenly Kings at the entry of the temple grounds. Put together, Guryongsa Temple is a nice little oasis in northern Busan.
