Hakbangsa Temple – 학방사 (Hadong, Gyeongsangnam-do)
Temple History
Hakbangsa Temple, which is also referred to as Hakbangam Hermitage, is located in eastern Hadong, Gyeongsangnam-do to the southwest of Mt. Bonghaksan. Hakbangsa Temple means “Fragrant Crane Temple” in English. As for the name of the mountain where Hakbangsa Temple is located, it looks like the shape of a crane lying down. And where the temple is built, it’s placed under what looks like the wings of the crane. Eventually, it’s believed, that the crane will finally spread its wings and soar high up into the sky. According to the temple registration for Gyeongsangnam-do, Hakbangsa Temple was originally founded in the late Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). There is very little known about the history of the temple beyond this.
However, in the temple courtyard, there is a stone turtle. Originally, there were two – one male and one female – but one is said to have gone missing during the Imjin War (1592-98). Though the meaning behind this stone turtle isn’t clear, there does appear to be a connection between it and the crane in the temple’s name. Together, they appear to possess auspicious significance. There is also an older three-story pagoda in the temple courtyard, as well, that looks quite old.
In 1842, the monk Seokdeokbong renovated and restored the temple. Due to recent flooding, and the damage this caused to the buildings at Hakbangsa Temple, restoration work began, again, in 2003. Before 2003, the humble main hall had collapsed four times due to landslides whenever it rained. Both the Daeung-jeon Hall and the Mireuk-jeon Hall were reconstructed, and all of this work was completed by 2006. Hakbangsa Temple is one of the 982 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea.
Temple Layout
You first make your way up to Hakbangsa Temple up a side-winding mountain road that’s quite steep in parts. Eventually, you’ll come to the temple parking lot. Approaching the main temple courtyard, you’ll pass by a five-story pagoda that dates back to 1960. Just to the north of this are the monks’ dorms and visitors’ centre.
Having passed by this row of buildings, you’ll enter into the main temple courtyard. Housed on the far end of the courtyard, you’ll find the aforementioned three-story pagoda that’s noticeably older in age. Around its base are four fading reliefs of what appear to be either Buddhas or Bodhisattvas, but it’s hard to tell because of all the wear. And behind this damaged pagoda, you’ll find the stone turtle that predates the Imjin War (1592-98). Rather unusually, the stone turtle doesn’t appear to have ever been used as a biseok (stele) base.
Now turning to your right, and beyond the residence to your left, you’ll find the newly built Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls appear to be adorned in murals from the Lotus Sutra, as well as lotus flowers and an all-white Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). Stepping inside the compact Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by a lone statue dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This image rests underneath a bronze coloured canopy. Rather interestingly, and I think this is a first for me, you’ll find Punggyeong (Fish-Shaped Wind Chimes) hanging from the canopy and joined by numerous white crane images. The interior walls are adorned with various paintings dedicated to different Buddhas and Bodhisattvas like Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom), Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power), Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife), as well as the Bodhidharma. Also taking up residence inside the Daeung-jeon Hall is a nicely crafted modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a compact Mireuk-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with murals dedicated to Podae-hwasang (The Hempen Bag), the Four Heavenly Kings, and dongja (attendants) flying kites, playing, and spotting a goldish frog. Stepping inside the Mireuk-jeon Hall, you’ll find an older, unfinished, relief dedicated to Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha).
The final shrine hall that visitors can explore at Hakbangsa Temple is located to the left rear of the Daeung-jeon Hall and up a set of uneven stone stairs. This natural wood finished building has a glass window on the front side of the shrine hall. Stepping inside the compact hall, you’ll find that it’s the Sanshin-gak Hall. What sets this one apart from most others is that there are two images dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) inside this shaman shrine hall. First, there’s a painting dedicated to Sanshin on the main altar. In this painting, Sanshin sits atop his accompanying tiger and served by two dongja (attendants). But what truly sets this Sanshin-gak Hall apart is the stone tablet inscribed with “Sanwang Daesinwi” (山王大神位, “Great Mountain King Spirit”) on it. This is the traditional form that Sanshin was worshipped in Korea. It’s believed that this stone tablet dates back to 1842, when the monk Seokdeokbong conducted a major reconstruction of Hakbangam Hermitage (as it was then known).
How To Get There
From the Hadong Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus #13-3 to get to Hakbangsa Temple. You’ll need to take this bus for 32 stops, or 36 minutes, and you’ll need to get off at the “Bonggok – 봉곡하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to head south and then east to arrive at the temple grounds. In total, the hike should take 23 minutes, or 1.1 km, and it’s mostly uphill so be prepared.
And if you’d rather take a taxi from the Hadong Bus Terminal to get to Hakbangsa Temple, it’ll take 29 minutes, or 24 km, and it’ll cost you around 42,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 6/10
There’s a certain quaintness to Hakbangsa Temple. It has beautiful views combined with some beautiful architecture and artistry like the old stone turtle, the stone tablet from 1842 dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), the murals adorning the exterior of the Mireuk-jeon Hall, as well as the unfinished stone relief dedicated to the Future Buddha. It all makes for a nice little visit away from the hustle-and-bustle of daily life.
