Seongamsa Temple – 성암사 (Nam-gu, Busan)
Temple History
Seongamsa Temple is located on the southern slopes of Mt. Hwangnyeongsan (427m) in Nam-gu, Busan. Because of its location on Mt. Hwangnyeongsan, it’s said to resemble a turtle laying eggs. This is thought to symbolize wealth and prosperity. As a result, Seongamsa Temple is thought to have an auspicious location. According to oral tradition, the temple was first founded in the late Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), and it once oversaw 13 hermitages. However, no detailed historical records about the temple have survived.
There are various legends about the modern origin of the temple. One tells of a lay practitioner, in 1910, who built a hermitage and then enshrined a statue of Dokseong (The Lonely Saint) inside it. This marked the beginning of the temple. Another version recounts how a monk enshrined a statue of a Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha) at the temple, which established the site as a place of worship. Building on this second legend, the monk had a prophetic dream. The next day, while heading towards Mt. Geumjeongsan, the monk discovered a Nahan statue buried beneath a wild vine. He carried this statue on his back, walking wherever his feet led him. He did this all day long, until he stopped at a place that would eventually become the present site of Seongamsa Temple.
From the 1970s, Seongamsa Temple began to function as a fully operational temple, once more. And in 1999, the temple changed its name from Seongamsa (聖巖寺) to that of Seongamsa (惺庵寺). So while the name of the temple remained the same in Korean, it changed its hanja characters. So while the temple used to be called “Sacred/Holy Rock Temple” in English, it’s now known as “Awakened Hermitage Temple” in English.
Throughout the temple’s history, several devotees of Seongamsa Temple have reportedly passed national exams, including the bar exam. Also, if one prays at the Samshin-jeon Hall (Three Spirits Hall) or the Yongwang-dang Hall, they will be blessed with children. Seongamsa Temple is one of the 982 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea.
Temple Layout
Through some twists and turns in the road, and down some back alleys, you’ll eventually come to the well hidden Seongamsa Temple. You’ll know that you’re getting close when the road narrows. Eventually, it’ll come to an end, and you’ll be in the temple’s parking lot. Up a slight bend in an adjoining road, it’ll lead you the rest of the way to Seongamsa Temple.
As you enter the main temple courtyard, you’ll notice that it’s surrounded on all sides by beautiful, mature trees that are especially beautiful during the autumn months. The first structure to greet you, rather surprisingly, is the rather boxy Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in dancheong colours. Stepping inside the main hall, you’ll find an elevated main altar centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This central image is flanked by statues of Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power) and Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom). To the right of this main altar triad is a statue dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise). And to the left of the main altar is a golden capped image of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) with green eyebrows. Backing all of these statues are hundreds of smaller statues of various Buddhas and Bodhisattvas. Some of these statues are white, while others are bronze in colour. Hanging on the far right wall is an older and smaller Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural), which is joined by a much larger modern Shinjung Taenghwa.
To the immediate left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the administrative office, which also acts as the Beomjong-gak Pavilion on the second story of the structure. Housed inside this bell pavilion is a large bronze bell. Beyond this two-story structure, you’ll next encounter a slender seven-story stone pagoda.
This slender seven-story pagoda is situated near the Samshin-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in dancheong colours similar to the exterior of the Daeung-jeon Hall. Stepping inside the shaman shrine hall, you’ll find a collection of three shaman murals housed inside the Samshin-jeon Hall. Housed inside this hall are a set of beautiful shaman murals. While the Dokseong (The Lonely Saint) and Chilseong (The Seven Stars) murals are rather typical in their design, it’s the Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) mural that really stands out. Dressed in a yellow robe with a brown headdress. All three of these shaman paintings are fronted by sixteen statues dedicated to the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha).
A little hidden, but not impossible to find, and to the right of the Samshin-jeon Hall, you’ll find a brick wall with an opening. This is the temple’s Yongwang-dang Hall. With wall-to-wall lights, ornamental stone flooring, and a radiant Yongwang mural, this Yongwang-dang Hall is different from most others that I’ve visited in Korea. Of course, it’s the intricate mural dedicated to Yongwang that truly stands out with three swirling dragons and a majestically seated Dragon King in the centre of it all.
How To Get There
From the Munjeon subway station, Line #2, stop #217, you can simply catch a taxi after going out either exit #2 or #4. The ride should last about 7 minutes, or 2.8 km, and it’ll cost you around 5,700 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 5/10
The biggest highlights at Seongamsa Temple are the two shaman murals. The Sanshin (Mountain Spirit) painting inside the Samshin-jeon Hall and the Yongwang (Dragon King) painting inside the Yongwang-dang Hall are both quite stunning. In addition to these two paintings, you can also enjoy the busy, yet beautiful, interior of the Daeung-jeon Hall. While little visited by foreigners, it’s well worth the effort to go and see, especially if you’re in the area.
